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Our Ballyfin review is primarily a video review; we'll be adding additional photos and commentary soon.
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Ballyfin Location and Getting There
Ballyfin is located in County Laois, about a 1 hour 15 minute drive from Dublin. While most guests rent a car and drive, it's also possible to take a 50 minute train journey from Dublin to Portlaoise Station, pre-arranging a taxi for the ~15 minute drive from the station to Ballyfin.
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The over 600 acre estate is gated, with a 4 minute drive to the restored Regency-era mansion, flanked by two sphinxes.
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Several staff members were waiting to greet me, and I was offered a warm towel (appreciated on a summer day that was nevertheless slightly chilly) and a choice of champagne or water. The entry has a protective covering over a mosaic from Pompeii:
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Yet the Pompeii mosaic isn't the oldest item in the house; that distinction belongs to the massive antlers of an Irish Elk from over 10,000 years ago, that hang above the doorway:
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Ballyfin, built in the 1820s by the Coote family who acquired the estate from the Wellesley-Pole family, had its original heyday in the 1800s, before eventually being sold to the Catholic Church around the time of Irish Independence. The Catholic Patrician Brothers ran a boarding, then day school, but lacked the resources to properly upkeep the buildings, which fell into disrepair. Chicago businessman Fred Krehbiel acquired Ballyfin in 2002 and spent 9 years meticulously restoring it to its former splendor. Of Swiss extraction, Krehbiel's attention to detail is visible throughout its grand reception rooms and 21 accommodations, all of them uniquely decorated.
The saloon is the heart of Ballyfin, bathed in natural light from its stained glass skylight, with the Coote family coat of arms.
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The Gold Room was favored by Ballyfin's ladies; it looks out to the front lawn and lake.
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The 80-foot Library's bookshelves are recessed into the walls. On a rainy day, this is where you'll find games to play and puzzles to put together.
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The center window looks directly out to one of Ballyfin's fountains, but when Fred Krehbiel originally bought Ballyfin, the fountain was two feet off center. He had it centered.
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The library door leads to the Conservatory, originally built as an Orangerie in the 1850s, to grow tropical fruit such as pineapples, which were very much in vogue among the well-heeled. It's now the perfect venue for lunch on a lovely summer day.
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Knight's Stateroom, Ballyfin
I was in the Knight's Room, one of the twelve rooms, with a king size canopy bed.
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The room takes its name from the miniature knight in a suit of armor, on the wall opposite the bed:
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The room is 441 sq. ft. (41 sq. m.), located at the front of the main house, with a view of the lawn and lake, which is the largest man-made lake in Ireland.
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The spacious bathroom has double sinks, a soaking tub, and roomy walk-in shower. Bath products are Pevonia.
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Soaps are handmade for Ballyfin; I enjoyed the citrus, rosemary, and lime scents.
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There were several other lovely touches, for example a complimentary non-alcoholic mini bar that Ballyfin toasted soda bread chocolate:
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In a nod to the climate, rain jackets are provided for use during your stay:
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Ballyfin also launders up to 5 items per room per day, complimentary, which reminded me of a luxury safari lodge such as Singita Sasakwa.
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Watch our Ballyfin Ireland video review:
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Ballyfin Restaurant and Dining
See our Ballyfin Dining Review.
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Ballyfin Estate Activities
Ballyfin offers a variety of estate activities: horseback riding, horse and carriage rides, catch and release fishing and boating on the lake, archery, clay pigeon shooting, and falconry. All should be reserved in advance, but particularly falconry, as the falconer isn't on property and needs to be booked to come to Ballyfin.
Always available are bicycles and buggies for guests to explore the estate at their leisure.
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Don't miss a walk through Ballyfin's garden, where virtually all the flowers seen in the bouquets in the reception rooms and guest rooms and suites are grown, as well as a number of the fresh vegetables used in Ballyfin's excellent cuisine.
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There's also a gym, to keep up with your routine, as well as a heated indoor swimming pool, sauna, vitality pool, and spa treatment rooms for a relaxing massage.
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Virtuoso Benefits for TravelSort Clients
- Upgrade on arrival, subject to availability
- Daily Full breakfast for up to two guests per bedroom, served in Hotel Restaurant
- $100 USD equivalent Resort or Hotel credit to be utilized during stay (not combinable, not valid on room rate, no cash value if not redeemed in full)
- Stays of 7+ nights will receive an additional $200 USD Resort or Hotel credit (for a total of $300 during stay)
- Early Check-In / Late Check-Out, subject to availability
- Complimentary Wi-Fi
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The Verdict
Ballyfin is easily the most luxurious hotel or estate stay I've enjoyed in Ireland, and is my top recommendation for our clients headed to the Emerald Isle. While I do wish that the mattresses were Four Seasons quality (much plusher), the vitality pool was hotter, like a jacuzzi, and that The Cellar served the same desserts as in the Restaurant, the other aspects of my stay were excellent. My tasting dinner was definitely Michelin quality; breakfast was delightful, particularly the homemade granola, cappuccino, and pancake; and I enjoyed the history tour given by a staff member so much, I went on it twice. Go with a loved one or your entire family as the perfect, relaxing end to a visit to Ireland, because it's the best the country has to offer.
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