Why Go
The world’s most northernmost capital city is at once a magnet for open-minded artists, a hipster and fashionista haven for going on a decade, and the focus of international attention after a seriously searing bankruptcy brought the country to its knees after years of economic contentment. An island with a fierce history of bitter rivalries, fly-by-night pillagers, and otherworldly tales of magic, Icelanders are at once pragmatic and somewhat mystical. This is, after all, a country where even the most cosmopolitan dwellers of Reykjavik still believe in elves and civil service groups move entire runways and roads to avoid disturbing important rocks.
Rather than focus on how bizarre some of the customs are–which, actually, they aren’t–it is far more interesting to dive right in and explore one of the most surprisingly open-minded capital cities. More than half of the population of Iceland makes Reykjavik its home, yet even at its most packed, the city feels immediately manageable. Colorful and striking architecture soars on the streets that rise above the lake, while in the distance–if it’s a clear day–you can see rising mountains and expired volcanoes. Reykjavik is the gateway to one of the youngest and most geographically distinct countries on earth, and even in the middle of the most fashionable design studio with clean lines and the best shoes this side of Milan, there’s still something about the magical landscape that offers an entirely different feel.
Nudging the Arctic Circle, the residents of Reykjavik manage to keep a sunny disposition despite some of the darkest months on the planet. While the sun may only be up for a couple of hours in winter, that doesn’t seem to matter on the weekend, when a citywide pub crawl, known affectionately as the runter, gets underway and brings everyone out to partake. The rest of the time, Icelanders are busy balancing a hectic and surprisingly prolific contemporary lifestyle with a healthy dose of tradition. You can enjoy puffin or Asian fusion dining, throw on a traditional wool sweater or an avant garde parka destined for a New York showroom, and take in a stroll through the stalls of the flea market or wander the city streets snapping photographs of some of the most colorful graffiti around. No matter what piques your interest, though, one thing will be certain: you’ll never visit another city quite like Reykjavik.
Insider Tips
- Try the brennivin and skyr, skip the putrid shark meat. As far as distinctive characteristics of Iceland go, the cuisine and booze have reputations that precede themselves. And while it might sound like a good idea to sample putrid shark meat or Viking-style fish jerky just to talk about it later, it means missing out on the legit-great contributions to food and alcohol that this island nation has offered. The caraway-flavored potato schnapps brennivin has been getting Icelanders drunk for centuries, and tastes like delicious brown bread. Likewise, because Icelandic lamb is still roaming freely in the fields, the taste is unlike anything else on earth. Skyr is like fromage frais or thick, creamy yogurt, and comes plain and in a variety of fruit flavors. Enjoy these delights rather than focusing on the weirder elements of dining.
- Do not miss the Blue Lagoon. One of those natural wonders that's in every guidebook for a decent reason, this geothermal spa gets packed during the height of the tourist season. But even if you're crammed in there with internationals from around the world, the soothing natural waters and surreal experience of feeling as though you're taking a steam bath on the middle of Mars make it a must-do experience. You can even fit it in before getting on a plane back home.
- Check out cultural imports beyond Sigur Ros and Bjork. The latest generation of designers, artists, and musicians emerging from Iceland know what kind of recognition the country's name affords them, and use it accordingly. Check out Sruli Recht's waterfront workspace, where he puts together “non-products” like bulletproof handkerchiefs and stunning footwear alike, or catch the latest Jonsi-approved local band playing on the main drag to see where things are going next. With a serious amount of effort being put forth to promote Iceland's creative class outside of the country, there's no telling whether or not the gallery you stumble into might be housing works that will be championed by international dealers in a couple of years or not, so enjoy the chance to browse now, before names are big.
- That's not a riot, that's the runter. While a citywide evening of boozing might sound more frat house than bauhaus, the fact is that this weekend tradition is very much alive and well, and a great way for those who aren't from Reykjavik to check out the nightlife. From nightfall until past the sun comes up, Fridays and Saturdays bring everyone out to enjoy the city's bars and clubs. Whether it's the Ice Bar below Restaurant Reykjavik, the latest froufrou venue with bottle service or a beloved and unassuming dive, expect to be shouting to companions after three in the morning and to spend a lot of time on one's feet. And if you're not adept at drinking over a stretch of time, don't expect to go toe-to-toe with an Icelander and still feel good in the morning; this is serious business.
Where to stay
For travelers who want the immediacy of downtown, staying in central Reykjavik is a must. Because the city’s main drag, Laugavegur, consists of the most popular restaurants, bars, art galleries, and numerous other spaces, picking a hotel in this area offers you the most options within a five minute walk. For picturesque views of the water and mountains, as well as a different sort of experience during the heat of the runter, staying a little bit outside of the city center can be refreshing. Unless you are on a particularly tight budget, many of Reykjavik’s hostels are a bit of a hike from the city center, though during daylight hours, catching a bus out to the suburbs is rather simple.
As Reykjavik has been a go-to European capital for rowdy groups of college-age boys as well as well-coiffed art stars from New York, there is a lot to choose from in the way of accommodations. Larger chain hotels are rare, but boutique hotels exist in droves, with everything from cozy country comforts to bohemian cool lofts and chic minimal luxury accommodations. Because tourism has quickly become an integral part of the city’s industry, expect to be able to find something that caters to your aesthetic.
Charming and centrally-located, Hotel Fron makes exploring 101 Reykjavik and the city's main drag simple even for the most directionally-challenged. Modern, minimal design manages to still seem welcoming for those who aren't as into Scandinavian aesthetic choices, and during the busy weekend nights, the hotel's spacious rooms and suites stay surprisingly quiet. Incredibly gracious staff can arrange everything from car rental to a place to stow bags before rooms are ready, making it easy for those arriving to Iceland to hit the ground running. Anyone planning a longer stay can rent one of the hotel's suites or larger apartments and self-cater or feel as though they have a home base, too. Incredibly reasonable off-season rates.
What to eat
Dining in Reykjavik can run the gamut from food that appears familiar to food that travelers will never again have the chance to eat. With its ideal location surrounded by some of the cleanest ocean waters in existence, seafood in Reykjavik’s restaurants is absolutely superb. Enjoy everything from traditional hearty seafood stew, made with cod, to dried herring from food stalls at the weekend flea market. The oysters, clams, and mussels are equally delicious, whether dining in one of the city’s ever-popular gourmet restaurants or one of its cozy Italian institutions. Iceland is also famous for its lamb, which is some of the most succulent this side of Patagonia, and serves up a number of more bizarre meat-based dishes, including rotten shark meat that has been buried in the ground, as well as puffin.
Aside from traditional dishes, Reykjavik’s dining scene is poised and ready to take on other European capitals. While a number of restaurants are more flash than anything else, the city is also host to some world-class chefs doing their best with local ingredients to craft inspired fusion cuisine.
With a boom in fusion cuisine and plenty of hearty, meaty delicious to try, a cozy vegetarian restaurant such as Á Næstu Grösum might not be at the top of your list. But from the dense and delicious organic breads to a surprisingly variety of daily dishes to choose from, this is a great and healthy way to enjoy the best of Iceland grains and produce. Located on the second floor of a house on the main drag, views to the street below make it feel like dining at Á Næstu Grösum is like having a quiet dinner at a friend's house. And while the menu might be limited to daily picks, the prices are a dream, considering how expensive dining out in Reykjavik can sometimes be. Even the wine and beer choices here are organic and home-grown.
World-famous hot dogs might sound like an oxymoron, but Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (Tryggvagata and Posthusstraet), an unassuming corner vendor stand with just a couple of picnic tables, draws crowds by the hundreds. And at six in the morning on Sunday after an evening of heavy drinking, you're guaranteed to spot hordes of people waiting for a snack here. Whether it's staving off the effects of boozing it up all night or simply wanting to try a local delicacy, the lamb hot dogs here are delicious and shockingly affordable. Delicious sauces and fresh onions might be better topping choices for the sober, though. Famous enough that framed photos of world leaders and pop singers enjoying the house specials adorn what wall space there is inside the shiny metal vending cart.
Part coffeeshop/cafe and part raucous bar, Kofi Tómasar Frænda (Skólavörðustígur 3a) is one of the venues on the main drag that manages to attract crowds no matter the hour. During daylight hours, earnest students brushing up on classic tomes might crowd the worn-in couches in chairs, but in the evening hours, finding a place to sit is next to impossible. This basement-level spot manages to attract more than just the university crowd, though, with plenty of internationals and local arty club kids dropping in from time to time. Delicious coffee, with and without booze, and snacks like sandwiches and waffles make it a nice break from sightseeing in the middle of the day. And in the evenings, especially on the weekend citywide pub crawl known as the runter, it's where many local bands and DJs come to keep people dancing until well past dawn.
What to see and do
A distinctive city without even considering the architecture, Reykjavik also offers up more than one building that you absolutely cannot miss due to its truly unique dimensions. The most noticeable structure in the city is Hallgrimskirkja, the largest church in the entire country, and one of the best views for those who want to see not just Reykjavik, but the surrounding land and entire harbor. Those who brave the walk to the top are rewarded with an ideal vista for photography, and the church bells can be heard throughout the city each day.
Outside of central Reykjavik is one of the most distinctive structures on the entire island, which consists of a glass dome, with various observation desks, that is balanced atop of a number of large silver water tanks. Truly futuristic and an incredible sight to glimpse from the flat landscape of the surrounding area, Perlan is a popular spot for concerts, a number of stores for tourists, and a revolving restaurant/bar with some of the best views of the city.
With everything from Viking Sagas to animal genitals receiving museums in the past in Reykjavik, the city definitely has its mix of the highbrow and the just plain bizarre. At Alpingishusio, the country’s parliament building, visitors can see relics from the country’s Antiquaries Collection as well as enjoy the architecture and surrounding gardens. Equally popular for Icelandic history is The Culture House, where the National History Museum and the National Museum have joined forces and offer up an extensive collection of exhibits on important moments in the country’s history.
From the prestigious to the obscure, theater has found a fabulous niche in Reykjavik’s culture. As one of the oldest theaters in the country, Reykjavik City Theatre was once located in an old timber building and now enjoys a state of the art structure which includes a black box theatre, regular theatre, and a successful roster of acclaimed and avant garde performances by visiting companies from Europe as well as numerous locals. A number of different performance art spaces are perpetually popping up around the squats and live-work spaces downtown, if something more edgy is preferred. For serious and classic dramas, locals and travelers alike head to the National Theatre.
Iceland is the home of numerous obscure but beloved bands who are just as famous for their quirky nature as they are their distinctive sounds. From Bjork and GusGus to Sigur Ros and Singapore Sling, for such a small city, Reykjavik has certainly managed to export a considerable number of talented musicians. While yearly festivals bring favorites back home, travelers are more likely to enjoy wandering up Laugavegur to find a venue with the next Sugarcubes. Classical music and dance also enjoy a following in Reykjavik. Dance: The Iceland Dance Company puts on contemporary performances, while The Icelandic Opera (www.ipera.is) has everything from opera favorites to special lunch-oriented opera performances. For the best of the city’s classical music, the Iceland Symphony Orchestra is known for its lively winter schedule.
Festivals are a huge part of Reykjavik and of Icelandic culture in general. Every weekend, the city’s oldest festival takes place, though it is more of a tradition than anything else. From midnight until well after seven in the morning, the main streets of downtown are packed with revelers enjoying the runter. Popular in winter and summer alike, this is one pub crawl that makes drinking in public in other countries seem tame by comparison. October’s annual Iceland Airwaves music festival brings together everyone from Europe’s biggest DJs to Iceland’s most exciting new bands, while a couple of weeks later, the Reykjavik Jazz Festival provides a calmer musical experience. In August, the streets of Reykjavik are awash with crowds fro an evening of culture, when Culture Night follows the city’s popular marathon.
Photos: o palsson, Whitney Weiss, gsz, Anosmia, Restaurant Reykjavik, Auslandsoesterreicherflickraccountinhaber, christine zenino