Nizhny Novgorod: Real Russia on a Budget

The Archangel Michael Cathedral

 

Why Go

Once the third largest city in Russia, Nizhny Novgorod (formerly Gorky) is one of the most stunningly beautiful spots in the entire country. For those who want an escape from the sometimes stressful bustle of Moscow, this is a perfect jumping-off point for gleeful exploration of Russia's countryside at its best. Just a four-hour train ride from Moscow, Nizhny Novgorod is an entirely different world. With its several parks, dozens of lakes, and beautiful rivers, it makes an excellent weekend getaway for internationals and weary urbanites alike. And its perfect vantage point, at the confluence of two great Russian rivers (the Volga and the Oka), means travelers have truly spectacular views of nature no matter the season they come to visit.

History buffs will also be aflutter upon arriving in Nizhny Novgorod, thanks to its rich and vibrant history. Founded in 1221, the city's great historical importance can be seen in the richness of its landmarks, which have been well preserved over the centuries. Today, the city takes special pride in the over 600 historical and architectural monuments that survived tumultuous wars and revolutions alike. Those compelled by architecture will enjoy the chance to see Nizhny Novgorod’s Kremlin, which dates back to the beginning of the 16th century. Many consider to be the most majestic medieval fortress in central Russia, and after travelers visit, they will likely understand why. For those who prefer a more contemporary touch, the mix of distinctive historic charm with more modern architecture will be a welcome sight for discerning eyes.

 

View of the Volga River from the Kremlin

 

 

 

A whimsical public statueInsider Tips

 

  • There are several daily trains from Moscow to Nizhny Novgorod. Take the Burevestnik (Буревестник) train. It departs from Kursky Station twice daily, with one train in the morning and one in the evening, with the whole trip running about four hours in one direction. Tickets cost $35-40.
  • When you purchase your train tickets, specify that you want breakfast or dinner included. The ticket won’t be much more expensive, and it certainly beats feeling hungry while traveling. Usually the train meal includes a bottle of mineral water, tea bags (hot water can be obtained in the train for free), a sandwich, yogurt, and pastries.
  • Once you reach Nizhny Novgorod and exit the train, you will be surrounded by numerous taxi drivers. Ignore them; you will find a taxi at a more reasonable rate outside the station. 
  • The public transportation system is well-developed in Nizhny Novgorod, but avoid traveling in the early morning or between 5PM and 7PM, the local rush hour.
  • You can only purchase bus tickets on the bus; there are no ticket machines at the bus stops. Once in the bus, hand your money over to the conductor or bus driver. The ticket price is 14-20 rubles, depending on the type of bus.
  • If you plan to purchase food in a supermarket, one with reasonable prices can be found in the shopping center just across from the train station.While there are numerous chain supermarkets in the city, travelers might want to avoid Perekryostok (Перекрёсток) if they are on a serious budget, as it tends to be more expensive. Sticking to small family-run grocery stores is recommended.
  • While it is easy to find an English guided tour, those on a budget might prefer to explore with a guidebook and a map instead. Most of the popular sites are situated in the historical center of the city, and with Nizhny Novgorod being a home to many universities, including the second best linguistics school in the country, travelers won’t have any trouble finding English speakers to help with directions or questions.
  • For many of the city's most popular sites, travelers will not have to pay an entrance fee, so there are no excuses for not taking in one's fill of culture and history! 

 

Where to Stay

A quick note to budget travelers: avoid the hotels in the city center, since most of them are overpriced. It's possible to find better service for reasonable money elsewhere.

One great option is Business Hotel “Nikol” (“Николь”). This small hotel is conveniently located close to the railway station, and just 20 minutes from the city center and the main attractions.  As one of the newest hotels in the city, expect a more contemporary approach to design and service alike. Each of the 48 rooms has its own unique decor, making for a delightful boutique experience. Free Wi-Fi and a complementary breakfast are both pluses, too. Rates are very reasonable compared to the rest of the hotels in the city, averaging $125-225 a room. The Nizhny Novgorod Fair is also just 10 minutes away.

For those who absolutely must stay in the city center, opt for the Nicola-House Hotel. This small private hotel is just five minutes away from the Pokrovka. The price ranges from $100 to $310 (breakfast included). However, booking in advance is necessary for those who want a less expensive room, as there are only four in the $100-125 range. Rooms are elegant and comfortable, equipped with air-conditioners, TV, and Wi-Fi, and will make guests feel right at home.

 

A room at the Nikola-House Hotel

 

What to Eat

Budget travelers should remember that, as with everything in the city center, the prices might be a bit high for everything from grocery stores to restaurants. However, here are some excellent picks. 

A good option is Pogrebok Shato (“Погребок Шато”) on Bolshaya Pokrovskaya 6. Its quiet atmosphere, delicious food, and dainty desserts will guarantee you a pleasant dining experience. In summer months, it's even possible to take in the sights of the city while dining outdoors. The average cost of a lunch will be $20-30; however, you can save significantly by ordering a business lunch. A two-course lunch will cost you $6 and a three-course lunch still runs less than $10. Pogrebok Shato is also one of the few restaurants in Nizhny Novgorod that offers vegetarian meals. For dessert, try the delicious handmade chocolate pralines. The restaurant also takes pride in its selection of wine, probably one of the best in Nizhny Novgorod.

 

Cozy restaurant Pogrebok Shato

 

Bistro Gavrosh” (Бистро “Гаврош”) on Rozhdestvenskaya Street offers delicious French cuisine at reasonable prices. A meal will cost you $20-30; again, those going for lunch should take advantage of the business lunch, which is only $7. By far, the most attractive thing about this spot is its own bakery, with a mouth-watering selection of hot croissants, French pastries, breads, and gourmet cakes that will definitely make your day. 

 

What to See

Nizhny Novgorod's Kremlin is a definite must-see, but you can't really miss it, as this magnificent fortress basically forms the center of the city. There is no other fortress in the world with such a large difference in the two different levels. A legend claims that Leonardo da Vinci was the building's architect, due to its perfect engineering, and that's one of many stories about the building worth hearing. Today, the Kremlin has 13 towers, each with its own name, history and purpose. From inside the Kremlin, travelers can enjoy a breathtaking view of the Volga River. Today, Nizhny Novgorod's Kremlin serves as the home to various different administration/government buildings, exhibits of military equipment, and the Archangel Michael Cathedral, the only of five within Kremlin walls to have survived through the centuries. It's worth noting that there is no entrance fee for the Kremlin.

Another landmark in the city center is the famous Chkalov Staircase, a favorite spot for locals. High school students have a long-standing tradition of watching the sunrise from the steps of the Chkalov Staircase on their graduation night.  The staircase offers an exceptional view of the Volga River, and itself is quite a sight, with its 560 steps in a figure-eight shape. If you get a chance, see the staircase in the evening, when it’s illuminated and even more striking.

A favorite spot for locals and visitors alike is Bolshaya Pokrovskaya Street (Pokrovka). This pedestrian zone is packed with architectural gems and numerous statues. Most houses here belonged in the past to Nizhny Novgorod’s rich aristocrats. Now these are shops, banks, and museums. Particularly remarkable are the State Bank and the Drama Theatre. Aside from the architecture, the pedestrian zone has a lively atmosphere with street musicians and painters displaying their artwork, so it’s perfect for a leisurely walk on a nice day. 

 

The State Bank Building

 

For art lovers, a visit to one particular museum on Bolshaya Pokrovskaya 9 is worth a visit, as it is unlike anything ever seen before. Yurkovka is named after its founder, a painter who paints not with paint and brushes but with leaves. His works are surprising, compelling, and well worth a visit.. The museum is open from 11AM until 4PM and the entrance is free. Works can be purchased, though those on a budget might want to simply take in the sights, as the least expensive begin at $200.

If you want to purchase some souvenirs for your friends and relatives, you should do so on Pokrovka. Bolshaya Pokrovskaya 43 offers the largest craft shop in the city. Matryoshka dolls, wooden toys, shawls; you name it and they have it.

For architecture buffs, a visit to the Fair Building is a must. The Nizhny Novgorod Fair has been famous for centuries. The main building of the fair is a true masterpiece, and often mistaken by tourists as a palace. For more exploration, Nizhny Novgorod is famous for its monasteries, churches and cathedrals. You will find Fair Church just five minutes away by foot. The same can be said for the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, which is equally fascinating. 

 

The famous Nizhny Novgorod Fair building

 

One of the most beautiful churches in Nizhny Novgorod is Stroganov’s Nativity (Rozhdestvenskaya) Church. It is very close in style to Moscow's St. Basil’s Cathedral. The church’s interior is not very spacious, but it is richly decorated in gold with Orthodox icons. Visitors will be filled with admiration for the way the rays of the sun glance in the colorful domes of the church, and will understand why it is considered one of the most beautiful churches in Russia. 

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Stroganov's Nativity Church

Photo credit: Nikola House, Michael Clarke, Pogrebok Shato

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