Why go
Rhodes is an enchanting medieval city, situated off the coast of Turkey on the fringes of what was once the Byzantine Empire and the Ottoman Empire, who left their mark by converting some of the churches into mosques. Lying on the crossroads of many a marauder from the Knights Templar to Alexander the Great, clashes over possession of the spearhead-shaped island have resulted in an interesting blend of architectural styles. After centuries of earthquakes and battles, it’s a miracle that anything is still standing. Nevertheless, it is one of the best fully preserved medieval cities you are likely to find, from cobblestone passageways below stone arches and little nooks and crannies where you can imagine peasants being sidestepped by knights in armor.
There’s no shortage of prehistoric sites as well, including the nearby Acropolis of Lindos, the Acropolis of Rhodes, and endless ancient Minoan artifacts that are over 3,000 years old. When you’ve had your fill of the old world, there are also miles of sunny beaches and an impressive Valley of Butterflies where nature lovers can stroll through a unique natural habit bounding with mystical flora and fauna and thousands of the most beautifully colored butterflies in the world. There’s also easy access to day trips on the coast of Turkey and the Greek islands of Kos, Patmos, Karpathos, Kalymnos, and Leros.
Insider tips
- Go in early May or late September to avoid the throngs of bare-chested, knee-high tube sock wearing Scandinavian tourists. You’ll be able to enjoy the sites without a dozen people posing in front of the ruins.
- Stay in Old Town or Rodos as they call it. Though slightly more expensive than outside the walled area, you can still find very reasonable accommodations. You’ll also save on taxi or bus fare, not to mention the toll on your feet from venturing there each day as that’s where most of the sites worth seeing are located.
- As in most Greek cities, dinner doesn’t start till after 9 pm, and the nightlife can go all night. Take full advantage of the siestas to rest up for a late night. There are some beautiful beaches to nap on just minutes from Old Town. If you’re an early riser you can still find restaurants open in the early evening. You may find them less crowded too.
- Avoid the restaurants on the main thoroughfare, Sokratous Street, where the waiters will beckon you in, nearly pleading for your business. There is a competition over who can lure in the most Germans with the largest and cheapest boot-shaped steins of beer. The food is typically forgettable in these places, made in bulk for people who likely won’t come back. You’re better off finding an off-the-beaten-path taverna with a nice courtyard. The family run establishments have a sense of pride in their dishes as well authentic recipes you won’t find in your typical gyro stand or pizzeria.
- A 10% gratuity is expected when service is not included.
- While dining, no need to shell out on the fine vintages. Just order a carafe of the house red table wine. It’s typically very drinkable and inexpensive. You’ll find the locals drink it as well.
- This is still Greece, so be prepared to wait for your check. They are in no need to get you out of there, so keep the carafes full and sit back and enjoy the no-hurry atmosphere. If you are in a hurry you will have to wave down the waiter.
Where to stay
I couldn’t have been happier with Minos Pension. It’s very affordable at €50 to €70 in the high season and as little as €35 for a single in the low season. It’s situated on the edge of the Old Town, so it is possible for taxis to drop you off right on the corner even in the high season, without having to navigate through the pedestrian clogged alleys that many taxis won’t take you though.
Our flight was delayed so we didn’t get in until past midnight but the owner, a nice older Scandinavian man, still got out of bed to see us to our room and pointed us in the direction of some late night eateries. The cleaning lady came every day and the place was immaculate. The bed was covered in a decorative canopy and there was a small flat screen television and a shared balcony. The only con was that the bathroom was on the tiny side (you could brush your teeth white sitting on the toilet). The café on the roof garden more than made up for it though and the service was great. They have free Wi-Fi and if you don’t have a laptop they will bring you one for a small hourly charge.
For breakfast, they serve excellent omelets and you can watch the cruise ships come into the harbor as you drink your coffee. Their boast of “the best view in Old Town,” certainly holds true. You can survey the entire city from the castle turrets to the mosque-like spires. Pick out a few of the ruins and find them on the map. Then head out and try to get there by counting streets. No doubt you’ll get lost. Nothing is straight in the Old Town, but it’s a delightful place to wander around being lost and window shopping at the glass works and jewelry stores. There no shortage of wonderful places to buy handmade souvenirs. After you’re good and tired from walking the uneven stone streets all day, come on back and watch the sunset with a glass of wine on the Minos Pension roof garden.
If you're not on a tight budget or have enough for a splurge, the Zacosta Villa Hotel, in the heart of the Medieval City of Rhodes, is also charming and personal, yet with luxurious touches. The Gran Maestro Suite has a lovely view of the courtyard and includes a stone fireplace, locally made king size four poster bed, luxurious linens, plush bathrobes and slippers, Korres toiletries, jacuzzi bath, and LCD TV. There are also two other smaller rooms, also off of the courtyard. Rates run from 100-200 EUR depending on the room and season, and complimentary breakfast is included.
What to eat and drink
Mama Sofia Restaurant is a great place to go in the Old Town, with its lovely roof garden, friendly service and sumptuous seafood platters. These aren't cheap, but pristinely fresh seafood (lobster, fish, mussels, calamari) make it worth it.
Romios Restaurant (15 Sofokleous Street) is another warm and friendly place in the Old Town with outdoor seating under the shade of a large leafy tree laden with cherry lanterns. There’s an interesting assortment of seating options from romantic cushioned booths beneath a trellis to long plank table for festive parties. Start with a traditional Greek salad (with over 300 days of sunshine a year, the tomatoes in Rhodes are as plump and ripe as you can find). The feta cheese is just as tasty. They serve an excellent fried octopus dish with a hint of orange. Also, the Pligouri meat balls are highly recommended. The only setback of this place, as with many outdoor restaurants in the Old Town, is that you may have flies pestering you as you eat. There may also be the occasional cat beneath the table who will beg for scraps if you happen to drop any food. All in all a very memorable place for a late afternoon or evening meal.
There’s no shortage of gardens for beer drinking and taverns that will keep the beer and wine flowing. Miltiadou Street or “bar street” is the place to see and be seen in the Old Town. Everybody ends up at Havana Bar at some point, whether it’s to sip a cocktail at the bar, people wtch at the tables outside or to listen to the jazz and house music.
What to see and do
The main entrance of the 600-year-old Palace of the Grandmaster, bookended by two imposing turrets, harkens one back to the days of the Knights of the Round Table and King Arthur’s Court. The reason why this castle appears so well preserved is that the Italians rebuilt much of it during their occupation as a summer house for Mussolini after it was destroyed in the mid 19th century. Before that the Turks used it as a prison. Like everything in Rhodes it has a storied history: built a long time ago, tragically ruined, rebuilt and repurposed by an invading faction only to be turned over and repurposed again by the next conqueror. Now, it stands as a museum housing cool medieval artifacts from swords to sculptures. If you only stop periodically to look at the more interesting exhibits, you can get through the whole place in a half hour. It is well worth the €10 admission fee, especially when you consider the ticket is also good for the Archaeological Museum (another must see) and the Museum of the Decorative Arts.
Once a hospital for knights, the Archaeological Museum‘s barren courtyards with small stacks of cannon balls and long tall corridors give you a good feel for how royally these places were built. The fireplaces alone could fit a small car. The upper floors house room after room of ancient artifacts of the Hellenistic period from jewelry to pottery and cooking ware. Unless you’re a real archeology buff, the exhibits are a bit of snooze. The thing to see is the building itself. As you walk along the columned balconies, you can imagine it as your house and wonder where you’d put the 40-foot by 60-foot flat screen TV. I sped walked through the whole place in 15 minutes.
While the Old Town has a strong nightlife, it’s not much for dancing. Head to Orfanidou Street on the waterfront just outside the walls if you are looking for dance clubs not far from Old Town. Otherwise, hit the Kalithea beach area where the mega clubs are situated.
If you’re feeling lucky, or if you just want some thrills and have some Euros to burn, gambling is legal in Rhodes. The Rhodes Casino is located in the Rhodes Hotel at Papanikolaou Street near the waterfront. They have roulette, black jack, poker and slot machines.
If you have time and have rented a car, make your way south to Lindos, where you'll find beautiful beaches.
Take time to also visit the acropolis of Lindos, home to the Temple of Athena as well as Roman ruins and the 14th century Castle of the Knights of St. John, built to defend Rhodes against Ottoman invasions.
Photos: bazylek100, Corvair Owner, Minos Pension, Zacosta Villa Hotel