David Toutain Paris Review, 1 Michelin Star
Rewards Credit Cards
Avatar_160_hilary
Hilary Stockton
Google+

My Award Booking Service helps travelers book first class and business class with miles and points. As an independent affiliate of Cadence, I also have access to Four Seasons Preferred Partner, VirtuosoPeninsula Hotels PenClub, Dorchester Diamond Club, Belmond Bellini Club, Shangri-La Luxury Circle, Langham CoutureRitz-Carlton STARS, Starwood Luxury Privileges, Rocco Forte and other 5-star hotel partners, so I can book, for no extra cost, your perfect luxury hotel or luxury cruise with VIP amenities not available anywhere else. Become a client and upgrade your stay!

GOT A BLOG POST IDEA?
Have a travel question we haven't covered yet? Want to share your secrets for traveling well for less?

David Toutain Paris Review, 1 Michelin Star

 

This Review of David Toutain in Paris is from my recent visit, when I stayed at The Peninsula Paris. David Toutain has worked with the best of the best, from Alain Passard (Arpege) to Bernard Pacaud to Pierre Gagnaire, and many diners know his work from Agape Substance. His namesake restaurant in the 7th arrondissement has earned him 1 Michelin star, and it's one of the most exciting tasting menus in Paris for the price.

See all our Michelin star restaurant reviews and posts.

Getting to Restaurant David Toutain and Hours

Restaurant David Toutain is located at 29 rue Surcouf in Paris, so the closest metro stations are La Tour Maubourg (line 8) and Invalides (RER C, metro lines 8 and 13). The restaurant is open for lunch Mondays to Fridays from 12noon to 2pm, and for dinner from 8-10pm. It is closed Saturdays and Sundays. I was able to make a reservation by email; just remember to reconfirm your reservation the day before dining (as at many Paris restaurants) otherwise it will be cancelled.

David Toutain Paris Review

 

The Scene

When I arrived for dinner, most of the tables on the lower level were already seated (as I was a running a bit late for my 8pm reservation) and there was one other couple seated on the second floor. While most of the tables were couples, there was also a table of four diners that appeared to be two couples who were close friends, and there was another solo diner as well.

David Toutain Paris Review

 

Tasting Menu and Food

At lunch, there's currently the choice of a simple 3-course menu for EUR 55, or the Menu Eglantine tasting menu for EUR 80 or the Menu Reine des Pres for EUR 110. At dinner as of 2017, the sole choice is the Menu Reine des Pres, which is the one I chose, although at the time I dined, there was also the choice of the slightly shorter Menu Eglantine for EUR 80.

David Toutain Paris Menu

 

After being seated and choosing the Reine des Pres menu, I was in good hands, and the amuses bouches were some of the more creative vegetable-based amuses I've tasted. I especially enjoyed the Salsify Wood, cooked until the center was soft, a bit like a Japanese yam, which you dipped in a white chocolate cream--it may sound strange, but it was fantastic, and I'd happily have eaten a whole course of this.

Salsify Wood Amuse Bouche, David Toutain Paris Review

White Chocolate Dip for Salsify Wood, David Toutain Paris Review

 

Next up was wild sorrel wrapped around a sorrel-juniper cream. Initially I didn't realize the interior was creamy, hence the messy photo, but it too was unique and delicous.

Wild Sorrel and Juniper Amuse Bouche, David Toutain Review

 

The most conventional was this squash and praline tart, which was good, if not as memorable.

Squash and Praline Tart Amuse Bouche, David Toutain Review

 

The first course was of a hollowed egg shell, in which a soft, gently cooked egg yolk was nestled in corn foam and drizzled with caramelized caraway. Yum! I had to smile though on seeing the accompanying corn bread, which had also featured at the Palme d'Or restaurant in Cannes. I think of cornbread as quintessential American comfort food, so it felt odd to have it two days in a row at French Michelin star restaurants, no less.

Egg with Corn Cream, David Toutain Paris Review

Cornbread, David Toutain Paris Review

 

The next course was Celery Tagliatelle with chestnuts, which was much tastier than I expected, given that I hate celery.

Celery Tagliatelle with Chestnuts, David Toutain Paris Review

 

Still, I preferred the next course of a wonderfully fresh sea scallop, accented with sea urchin and, of all things, coffee. Somehow David Toutain manages to pull together flavors you wouldn't think would go together at all, and have them not only complement but enhance each other.

Scallop, David Toutain Paris Review

 

The next course featured cod and parsley root, and again, while I'm not really a fan of cod, which seems like one of the least interesting fishes to me, here it was cooked perfectly and the parsley root and creamy sauce had me mopping up every last bit.

Cod with Parsley Root, David Toutain Paris Review

 

One of my favorite dishes of the evening was smoked eel with a hearty black sesame puree. 

Smoked Eel with Black Sesame Puree, David Toutain Paris Review

 

The main course was duck with plump sweet potato gnocchi and roasted brussels sprouts--one of the more straightforward dishes of the evening, but immensely satisfying. The only thing I wished for was for the duck skin to have been crisper, with more fat rendered from it. 

Duck with Sweet Potato Gnocchi, David Toutain Paris Review

 

A cheese course was free form, and tasted a bit like Tete de Moine, one of my favorite cheeses, but not sure exactly what it was:

Cheese Course, David Toutain Paris Review

 

A superb palate cleanser followed, that I'd love the recipe for, given its surprising ingredients: a mousse of cauliflower and white chocolate, with coconut sorbet. I'm betting that even my son, as much as he hates cauliflower, would have eaten up this dish and asked for more.

Cauliflower White Chocolate Mousse with Coconut Sorbet, David Toutain Paris Review

 

The next two courses were more underwhelming for me: the first was meant to be quince and gianduja, but I've had many quince dishes that I've enjoyed much more.

Quince and Gianduja, David Toutain Paris Review

 

The next was citrus fruits and carrot, and while I like citrus fruits, I honestly would have preferred to have had fresh unadorned pomelo instead of this dish.

Citrus and Carrot, Restaurant David Toutain Paris Review

 

Fortunately the mignardises that followed were the perfect ending, particularly the one that reminded me of a mini churro (except much better) and the chocolate truffle.

Mignardises, David Toutain Paris Restaurant Review

 

The Verdict

I love the surprise elements of David Toutain. In general, I'm not a fan of molecular gastronomy, or anything that seems gimmicky or more form over substance. So I was thrilled that, while the dishes were clearly plated with care and there was some "show" in terms of the twigs, bed of pumpkin seeds or things the food was nestled against, the emphasis was on great taste and letting the essence of the food shine through. Humble vegetables were used to great effect, from sorrel and squash to celery, corn, sweet potato and carrots. This also meant that although there were 10 tasting courses, not including the amuses bouches, it was the perfect amount, and I left feeling satisfied but not stuffed.

The only aspect that I found a bit disappointing were a couple of the sweet courses towards the end. It's not clear to me if there's a dedicated pastry chef, but I think to get to 2 Michelin stars one will be needed.

Recommended Posts

Review: The Peninsula Paris

Le Cinq Paris Restaurant Review, 3 Michelin Stars

Review: Mathieu Pacaud Histoires Paris, 2 Michelin Stars

Need Award Booking Help? Our fee is as low as $75 per ticket if you book your hotel through us.

If you enjoyed this, join 200,000+ readers: please follow TravelSort on Twitter or  like us on Facebook to be alerted to new posts. 

Become a TravelSort Client and Book your Paris Luxury Hotel with Virtuoso or Preferred Partner Benefits

  • |
  • Print
    print |
Related Articles
Comments
Leave a Comment
Comment
Facebook-logo
Hotel Rewards Credit Cards
Get Free Email Blog Updates
Popular Articles
Square_david_toutain-paris_restaurant_review
2/2/2017
  This Review of David Toutain in Paris is from my recent visit, when I stayed at The Peninsula Paris. David Toutain has worked with the best of the best, from Alain Passard (Arpege) to Bernard Pacaud to Pierre Gagnaire, and many diners...
Square_loiseau_blanc_paris_restaurant_review
2/11/2017
  L'Oiseau Blanc is one of The Peninsula Paris Hotel's 3 main restaurants, along with LiLi and Le Lobby. It has the most spectacular setting of the three, on the hotel's glass atrium enclosed rooftop, with a view of the...
Square_review-members_dining_room-metropolitan_museum_of_art_nyc
2/6/2017
  The Members Dining Room at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC was one of our NYC Restaurant Week Winter 2017 picks for where to go. Normally you do need to be a Member of the Museum to make a reservation,...
Square_review-red_compass_nyc_georgian_restaurant
3/10/2017
This Red Compass NYC Review is one of our many Restaurant Reviews. Visiting New York? See all of our posts tagged NYC. Regular readers know that I love Georgian food--from Georgia the country, not Georgia the state. I first had Georgian food back in 1992...
Square_review-gabriel_kreuther_nyc-1_michelin_star-dining_room
2/17/2017
  Gabriel Kreuther's eponymous NYC restaurant, which has 1 Michelin star, is one I've wanted to try for some time. Gabriel Kreuther was previously the Executive Chef at The Modern, before opening his own place. My husband and decided to...
Square_sushisho_masa_review-sayori-needlefish-superb
4/9/2017
  This Sushisho Masa Tokyo Review is from our recent visit to it, one of Tokyo's top sushi bars. It may not have a Michelin star, but rumor has it that this is because the Michelin inspectors have been barred...
Square_redfarm_nyc_restaurant_review-529_hudson_street-communal_table
2/20/2017
  This RedFarm NYC Review is one of our many Restaurant Reviews. One of my clients mentioned that RedFarm is one of his new favorite NYC restaurants, and not only encouraged me to try it, but very kindly arranged with one of the owners...
Square_the_peninsula_tokyo_lobby_lounge_review
4/1/2017
  This The Peninsula Tokyo Hotel Breakfast Review is from our recent breakfast at the hotel on our first full day in Tokyo.  TravelSort Clients enjoy complimentary full breakfast for two daily as a PenClub benefit (a ~$80 per day benefit), in addition to other Virtuoso and...
Square_lichen_with_caramelized_cream_and_mushroom_broth-aska_nyc_review
4/17/2017
  This review of Aska in Brooklyn, NYC is from our recent visit, to celebrate our anniversary. Aska is the newest Michelin two-star restaurant in NYC, and one of only 10 NYC restaurants with two Michelin stars. Aska Location, Getting...
Square_sushi_sora_review-otoro-fatty_tuna
4/14/2017
  Sushi Sora is the Japanese sushi bar at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo, with just 8 seats, helmed by Chef Yuji Imaizumi. I had a chance to try it for lunch during our recent stay at the Mandarin Oriental, although...