Why go
The island off the coast of Italy’s mainland boasts of not being Italy, for locals will proudly tell you that this triangle shaped land is first and foremost Sicily. Sicily may be as close as one can get to a true Italian experience. English is not commonly spoken here, and Sicilians look at travelers with a mysterious, inscrutable gaze, always wary of outsiders that make their way to Sicily. This in part is due to Sicily’s history, which in turn is perhaps the main reason to visit the island.
Sicily has long been a coveted island in the Mediterranean–the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Spanish, and the Italians have all at one point or another fought to call Sicily their own. This mix of cultures and architectures can only produce an unusual place, and Sicily is just that. Whether this is your first or fifth time in Sicily, the island’s extraordinary natural beauty, striking ruins, delectably fresh produce and seafood and strong sense of history will seduce you and leave you wanting more.
Insider tips
- See if any religious festivals are taking place at the time of your trip to Sicily. The old town of Siracusa, Ortygia, hosts several religious festivals worth participating in for the cultural value. The Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 6th features the townspeople carrying a statue of Mary through the streets. Even bigger, on December 13th, the patron saint of Siracusa Santa Lucia draws people from all over Sicily. A silver statue of Lucia is paraded through the town and firework displays resound off the harbor.
- Summer in Sicily is hot. So hot you may get out of a cold shower and be sweating due to the intense humidity. Try and plan your trip either in late spring or early fall. The weather will be much more comfortable than in the middle of summer.
- If you see Pasta alla Norma on a restaurant menu, order it. The dish is a Sicilian specialty with pasta covered in tomato sauce, eggplant, and mozzarella cheese.
- In almost every town in Sicily, outdoor or indoor markets sell fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses and meats in the mornings, normally Monday through Saturday. Ask around in town where the markets are held. Sicily has remarkable produce. Heading down to bargain for a kilo of Sicilian blood oranges will taste more satisfying that grabbing a snack at the hotel.
- While male tourists do not seem to have this problem, women visitors should prepare for potential catcalls from Sicilian men. You may hear what sounds like a snake slither to get your attention. It is the Sicilian man’s whistle. Being a red head in Sicily, I stood out like a sore thumb and frequently received unwanted attention. Ignore their comments and calls, and they will eventually give up and go on to find another unsuspecting foreign woman.
Where to stay
Hotel Roma positions itself in a perfect location for exploring southeastern coastal town Siracusa. The hotel is situated on the island of Ortygia, connected to Siracusa by a bridge. Guests of the hotel stay in a safe area with plenty to see and do nearby during the day. The Duomo (cathedral) lies just around the corner. The rooms are more modern than one would expect in Sicily. The hotel is definitely for those looking to treat themselves to a four-star quality night sleep. The breakfasts are delicious, but guests wanting a break from the hotel can go to neighboring Café Minerva for a frothy cappuccino. Rooms can be a bit pricey, but wonderful service and atmosphere is pretty much guaranteed with the bill.
Another intriguing option is to stay at a bed-and-breakfast with a decidedly violent history. The Agriturismo Portella della Ginestra, a 17th-century farmhouse near Piana degli Albanesi that once belonged to brutal mafia boss Bernardo Brusca, is now a B&B with an organic farm.
And in Corleone, immortalized in The Godfather, the Agriturismo Terre Di Corleone is a restaurant serving organic dishes and inn with 5 comfortable rooms, housed in the stone farmhouse and stables that belonged to Mr. Riina, who was for decades head of the Sicilian Mafia and now is in solitary confinement in a maximum-security prison.
Where to eat
Le Vin de L’Assassin Bistrot (Via Roma, 115, Siracusa) is a lovely little French bistro on the island of Ortygia, Siracusa's old town center, run by a French chef of Sicilian heritage who clearly takes pride in his cooking. Perfect for a romantic (but not stuffy) dinner, or if you want a change from traditional Sicilian fare. Try the onion soup, duck, and creme brulee or tarte tatin for dessert.
Castello Fiorentino (Via Crocifisso, 6, Siracusa) is where I dined every Sunday night for about 5 months. The pizza never disappointed me, and neither did the bustling, lively atmosphere. Just off of Via Roma in Ortygia, Castello Fiorentino attracts a young crowd of families and Italian teenagers, who come here for pizza. The pizza’s crust is chewy and thick, cooked to perfection. Try the Quatrro Formaggi Pizza. The perfectly melted four cheeses create a mouth watering dining experience. The wait staff looks more like entertainers. Loud dark-haired Sicilian men shuffle pizzas around like cards. If a line is forming outside, they will quickly usher you in and out, but I never minded, post pizza.
BamBar Taormina (Via Di Giovanni, 45, Taormina) is famous for a few reasons. One of which is without question its granita. Granita is an Italian version of an icy. A slushy almost, but so much more, Bam Bar serves up countless flavors of granita, especially in the summertime. The likes of Michael Douglas and Antonio Banderas have all sampled a granita here. The owner will even prove it to you by showing you his moving picture frame slideshow of all of Bam Bar’s famous visitors.
The other reason Bam Bar remains so well known is for its beautiful designs on its exterior. Yellow and blue paintings make Bam Bar truly stand out from the rest in the mountain town of Taormina. The bar also serves typical café drinks and pastries if you are not in the mood for a famous granita. However, the proud owner may bring one out even if you did not order it just so everyone that walks through Bam Bars doors experiences the best granita.
What to see
Italy is filled with beautiful piazzas, but Piazza Duomo in Ortygia on Sicily’s southeastern coast is easily one of the country’s most beautiful if not the most spectacular. The piazza is wall to wall pristinely colored a creamy off white. Piazza Duomo is expansive in size and perspective. The surrounding buildings in the square are baroque in style. The big attraction in the piazza could be by just marveling at the Duomo. Along its right side, giant columns can be seen. The church was converted from the Greek’s temple to Athena. Visitors can enter the Duomo free of charge to admire the structure dedicated to Santa Lucia. During warmer months a number of cafes in Piazza Duomo feature outdoor seating, perfect for people watching. At night, lights illuminate Piazza Duomo. As the locals do, around 7:00PM take the evening passeggiata, or stroll, through the piazza. The experience alone feels surreal.
Those that love getting back to nature while on vacation can visit Mount Etna on Sicily’s eastern coast. Not only is Mount Etna the largest active volcano in Europe, but it also has the longest period of documented eruptions in the world. If you are flying into the Catania airport, try and reserve a window seat. You will be able to marvel at Mount Etna’s coverage and size from the air. Most local tourist agencies can set travelers up with excursions to Etna. Depending on what type of hike you are looking for, these guided tours normally range in difficulty and length. Some tours last all day so visitors can see actual lava flow at night, while other tours are just half a day to walk around the craters. Either way Etna is beautiful with varying landscapes. From loose lava rock scenery to beautifully colored forests in fall, Mount Etna is worth strapping on your hiking boots for a personal look.
Perched on Sicily’s southern coast, Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples looks out on the salty sea. A Greek settlement that was founded as far back as the 6th century B.C. will impress any pair of eyes. Visitors should not miss admiring the Temple of Concordia: built around 425 B.C., the temple has been cited as one of the best-preserved Temples in the Mediterranean. Archeologists attribute its intact structure to the Christians and Byzantines. Around 597 AD, the Temple of Concordia was converted into a church, preserving its remains a great deal. Today, visitors can walk up and down the Greek settlement while trying to wrap their minds around just what went into constructing such enormous temples. Summer months here are crowded and hot. Strolling through on a brisk fall day may be a better time to visit the ruins. The actual city of Agrigento does not offer much to visitors. It is better to stay in another southern town if you want to see the Valley of the Temples or to just spend the day in Agrigento. A visit to the temples costs around 6 euros per person.
The seaside town of Cefalú highlights the Norman period in Sicily’s history. Cefalú, just under 45 miles outside of Palermo, is perfect for strolling, shopping and sightseeing. Visitors can begin by taking a walk along the beach or browsing the many shops. The must see of the town remains its Duomo (cathedral). Built in 1131 by Norman King Roger II, the Cefalú Duomo features an inspiring exterior and interior. Hovering above the altar, almost on the church’s ceiling, is an exquisitely detailed mosaic of Christ. Dining along the coast in Cefalú will easily round out the day. Less touristy than nearby Taormina, Cefalú is still graced with picturesque charm and well worth a visit.
Photos: Allie Caulfield, Hotel Roma, BamBar Taormina, Simone Sapienza,