Romantic Getaway to San Antonio, Texas

Why go

Most people think of San Antonio as a destination for history buffs and school kids. Hike the Mission Trail and trek through old churches, then head to Sea World when you hit culture overload. And unless you just need to see for yourself that the Alamo has no basement, grown ups looking for a romantic getaway should head somewhere else, right? Actually, the “Alamo City” has an elegant, sensual side that is perfect for couples looking for a little down time a deux. San Antonio offers abundant opportunities for quiet walks, low-lit dining, music and cocktails, and intimate conversation—and in a more affordable, less trendy fashion than many adult destination cities.

Insider Tips

South Central Texas is most beautiful in the spring and fall seasons, when the sun is mild and nights are pleasantly cool and breezy. Occasional rainfall keeps the landscape green and—especially in March and April—coax brightly colored wildflowers into bloom. While the city tends to enjoy more than 300 days of sun, it is wise to bring an umbrella or light jacket for the odd wet, grey day, especially in May and September. The area also enjoys temperate winters, with daytime highs typically reaching highs in the mid-50°F range. But if you visit in January or February, plan to layer your clothing. It can get quite chilly when the sun is in hiding. The summer months of July and August are brutally hot, not the optimal time to enjoy the city’s Riverwalk and other outdoor attractions. Bring sunscreen. If pollen allergies plague you, bring your favorite antihistamine; the climate encourages a long growing season for many plants.

San Antonio is the nation’s 7^th most populous city, and like many urban centers in the South, it sprawls over a large land area. But many of the city’s most appealing amenities are centrally located, so visitors should not experience too many transportation headaches. Public transportation includes the VIA Transit bus system, which services the entire metropolitan area, including an inexpensive downtown streetcar service. A single fare for the average VIA trip is $1.10 per ride, the $4 day pass is a smart investment.

If you prefer to use taxi cabs, several companies operate in the area. It is possible to hail a cab at the airport or in the downtown area, but if you choose to travel to or stay in one of the city’s other neighborhoods, you will need to pre-book or call for service. If you plan to live the night life, there is a $1.00 “late hour” fee in addition to the regular fare.

Visitors who wish to explore attractions on the periphery—Sea World, the Mission Trail, Six Flags—should consider renting a car, as rates are very reasonable. But be forewarned, most of the downtown hotels charge steep parking fees. The street layout, especially around the Alamo, can be very difficult and frustrating to navigate. If your primary goal is to relax with your favorite person, it might be best to let someone else do the driving.

Many of San Antonio’s residents live in neighborhoods far from the city center. So traffic can get congested during the peak commuting hours of 7 – 9 am and 4:30-6:30 pm. If you keep to the city center, you will encounter busy foot traffic and consistent car movement, but should not see too many serious delays (except after special events like concerts). If you have to travel on any of the eight major highways that cross San Antonio, be prepared for slow going during peak times.

San Antonio International Airport (SAT) is in North Central San Antonio, eight miles from downtown. The facility has been under renovation for some time, and while the administration have worked to keep disruption to a minimum, be prepared for some possible detours and construction dust. Taxi fare from SAT to downtown/central San Antonio is about $25-$30 for up to six passengers. Go Airport Shuttle provides shared ride service for $18 one way/ $32 round trip to the downtown and central areas.

San Antonio is a popular tourist and convention destination, and experiences steady visitor traffic throughout the year. January-February and August-September are the least crowded, but also the periods with the least comfortable weather. If your goal is a romantic getaway, you will likely want to avoid the largest crowds. The hotels, restaurants, and activities below provide a quality experience and more intimate settings. Hotel concierges will also have an inside track on out-of-the way spots to enjoy the company of someone special.

Where to Stay

Most of the major hotel chains have large properties on or near the Riverwalk; many are connected to the large shopping center and convention center, and have a high volume of foot traffic. But you can find small, cozy properties nestled on quieter streets in the same area.

If you are looking for fashionable, luxurious accommodations, the Hotel Valencia offers old world grace and modern comfort. Its outdoor fireplace is perfect for sharing a drink on cool October nights, and the property offers specialty packages with wine and spa treatments if your goal is to spend as much time as possible in your room. Its only obvious potential flaw is the lack of a pool. Rates start at $150 per night in the low season, and around $200 per night during peak times.

The Hotel Havana is a renovated historic property with hard wood floors, ambient lighting to spare, and overlooks the Riverwalk (but, alas, like the Valencia, no pool). Each room has its own unique character, and the bar, a reputation for killer mojitos. Rooms start at $180 per night. The Mokara Hotel and Spa is also a restored historical property, with understated beauty and charm. It houses a very popular spa, and a rooftop pool—if you brave San Antonio in August, that may be your source of greatest solace. Rooms start at $260 per night.

What to Eat

San Antonio is a Mecca of Tex-Mex cuisine, for certain, but all “Six Flags” of Texas are present in the city’s food culture. It is unfortunate that the Riverwalk, while picturesque, is dominated by chain restaurants that cater to the high octane, super-sweet margarita crowd…but there are also plenty of local establishments. These are where you will find those quiet tables for two, attentive but unobtrusive service, and food worth leaving the hotel room to find.

Try Paloma Blanca on Broadway for fantastic lunch deals, romantic dinner, or relaxing weekend brunch. Try the queso o guacamole y tostadas, enchiladas verdes, pozole, and the tres leches cake for dessert.

Mi Tierra, located at Market Square, is known as much for their lively atmosphere as for their Tex-Mex fare. Open 24 hours, it is always crowded. But when you arrive, slip the hostess a $10 and ask for a quiet corner. You’ll have wandering mariachis waiting to serenade you (or not, your choice), decent fajitas and tamales for a very reasonable $12-15 per plate, and vivid décor to inspire conversation (if you run out of things to say to each other). Grab something sweet from the pastry case, and then you can wander hand-in-hand through the stalls at El Mercado.

For something a bit cozier visit Zinc Champagne and Wine Bar. They specialize in small plates, sandwiches, and pizza (as well as wine) in the $10-15 range. Go for the gorgonzola pizza with fig and prosciutto, or the artisan cheese platter, rather than the soppressata. Your sweetheart will thank you later.

Boardwalk Bistro is also a short cab or car ride from central hotels; in addition to rich Mediterranean fare such as seafood paella, lobster risotto, and a number of vegetarian options, they also host live jazz on several evenings a week. Most dinner entrees start at $20.

For a real special occasion (or just to knock someone’s socks off), head to Biga on the Banks. If house apple smoked salmon and seared duck breast don’t bring the two of you closer, then maybe it just wasn’t meant to be. The pear raspberry crumble and the Mexican chocolate mousse have been known to save relationships. If the weather is fine, ask for a seat on their small riverfront balcony. Entrée prices average about $32 per plate.

What to Do

You can join the crowds on the Riverwalk, gaze down at the city from the Tower of the Americas, or engage in the old standby—a horse drawn carriage ride—and all of those things are nice, of course. But the city has other pleasures for two.

Head to the San Antonio Botanical Gardens for an evening concert or the Starlight Movie Series. In the daytime, the Gardens are a favorite for elementary school trips. But in the twilight, the well-manicured lawns, pergolas, and greenhouses are equally good for more adult conversation. The gardens are an easy drive or short trip by bus or cab. But they are a little off the beaten path. Be sure to take a map.

Visit the McNay Art Museum. Wander through Marion Koogler McNay’s grand old home, where the architecture is as remarkable as her collection of paintings and sculpture. The grounds are gorgeous, a favorite for bridal portraits, and wonderful for picnics. The museum is best reached by taxi or car.

Take the #9 bus to Central Market and buy a picnic lunch. Then catch it heading back towards downtown, and stop at Brackenridge Park for a picnic. Remember—no alcohol glass containers. If you’re feeling whimsical, ride the small train or visit the monkeys at the San Antonio Zoo. If you’re both in the mood for something more tranquil, take a turn through the Japanese Tea Garden.

Sip a cocktail while you listen to swing jazz at Jim Cullum’s Jazz Landing on the Riverwalk. This is the home of NPR’s program “Jazz at the Landing” and the best spot downtown for nightly music.

Hop on the Via Streetcar’s Blue Line and head to the Blue Star Arts District in the King William neighborhood. There’s a brewery, galleries and shops, and “First Friday” events where all of the vendors stay open late. Be sure to check the calendar at the Blue Star Contemporary Art Center. They host frequent evening gatherings with music, wine, and art.