Why go
Marmaris is not only one of the largest and best developed resorts on the Aegean coast, it’s easily one of the loveliest. Picture yourself plunging into the warm sea, feeling the salt on your lips, enjoying the warm sun and blue skies, and hearing in the distance, the soulful sounds of Turkish music. Sample fresh and delicious Turkish delicacies, hear the prayer of the mullahs in the morning from a city mosque, and stroll through the streets of the city then down to the picturesque waterfront, dotted with yachts and palm trees. But don’t just take my word for it—experience Marmaris for yourself!
Insider tips
- The nearest airport to Marmaris is Dalaman Airport, which is about 1 hour 45 minutes away by car. Taxis cost about $100, so you’ll either want to share one (unfortunately taxis seem to have a lock on airport transport—there were no shared van services when I was there) or rent a car and drive yourself.
- Once you get to Marmaris, transportation is well developed. To get anywhere in Marmaris and the surrounding area you can take the shuttle bus for $1-2. Taxi stands are often more expensive due to the high cost of fuel – from $5.10 in the city (for example, a liter of 92-octane is $2). Along the waterfront there’s also a taxi and a boat that will take you to the nearby areas for about $2. From Marmaris marina there are a number of ferries to Rhodes. Cost per round trip on the same day per person is about 45 EUR.
- Although the local currency is of course the Turkish lira, in Marmaris, as in all Turkish resort towns, you can also pay in US dollars and Euros. If you do want to withdraw lira, ATMs can be found at the local banks, as well as in many hotels. Prices in shops, cafes and restaurants are noted in lira, as dollars and euros, although at the exchange rate of almost one to one. Therefore, it’s cheapest to pay in lira.
- The hotels that are located in the heart of Marmaris don’t have their own beaches due to the dense infrastructure of the city; they only have access to the city’s public beaches. Some hotels are located on the city boundaries or on the road to Marmaris along the coast, and these have the advantage of a private beach. If you a beautiful private beach is important to you, make sure to ask the hotel about it before booking. At the beach you can rent loungers and umbrellas for about $2 for the day.
- Before you start actively sunbathing, I advise you to go to a Turkish bath! This will not only allow you to relax, but also refreshes the skin.
- Along the waterfront is a huge number of shops, cafes and restaurants. If you go into the center of Marmaris, you will find the famous alley bars. Dance clubs are located one after another, and play a range of music styles, from club to R&B. Typically there’s no cover to enter the bar, but there’s a 1-drink minimum. To attract guests, some night clubs give each guest a complimentary welcome-drink cocktail, and even provide free transportation by bus to the hotel.
- If you enjoy shopping, you’re in luck. You’ll be struck by just how many stores there are, and the sheer variety of products they sell. In terms of souvenirs, some excellent options are gold and silver jewelry, exquisite leather goods, beautiful shawls, Turkish rugs, Turkish coffee, various spices, sweets (including Turkish baklava), and olive oil-based soaps and cosmetic products. If you do shop in the market or even in private shops (although obviously not in supermarkets, where there’s a definite fixed price) be sure to bargain! Local shopkeepers expect to bargain, and you can get some great deals.
- If you need to buy anything at a supermarket, the largest ones, with the greatest variety, are Tansas and Migros.
- Along the promenade of Marmaris a huge number of yachts are moored, and most of them can be rented
- The majority of local people (not all of course) spoke in English – some quite a bit, but someone well enough. Nevertheless, I advise you still learn a few phrases of duty in Turkish. For example: “Yes / No – Evet / Yok», «Hello / Goodbye – Merhaba / Hoscha kalin», «Sorry / Thanks – Pardon / Teshekkur».
- A 10% tip is appropriate when dining out, and also for maid at your hotel. You’ll receive better housekeeping.
Where to stay
The 5-star Hotel Aqua Marmaris is located 11 kilometers from the center of Marmaris in the village of Icmeler on the beach. This colorful and quiet place ideal for those who want to stay away from the crowds in Marmaris and have access to a beautiful private beach. That said, it’s easy to get to the center of Marmaris, by taking the water taxi that leaves from the pier on the beach. There’s also a shuttlebus that takes you to the city center in just 10 minutes.
The hotel’s entrance is adorned with antique cars, which lends some retro-charm. Amenities are modern, however: the rooms are clean and well designed, with balconies (try to get a sea view and a room on a high floor), AC, minibar, safe, TV, and Internet access (surcharge).
The private beach is just 50 meters from the hotel, and all sun beds and umbrellas are free of charge. One does need to pay extra for the sun bed mattresses, but it’s not much. On the beach you can also rent a water scooter and drive through the waves. The only problem with the beach are the large stones under the water. The beach itself is sandy, but once in the water you do need to be careful of the stones on the sea bottom.
The hotel’s on-site amenities include a restaurant, outdoor swimming pool, and a cocktail bar with a stage. There’s entertainment nightly, with live music and fun contests. The hotel also has lush green landscaping, which is the perfect setting for the hotel’s Jungle Bar Jungle. Enjoy some wine here in the evening by candlelight, while a solo guitarist plays all your favorite romantic songs.
Breakfast, lunch and dinner buffets are served in the main restaurant on the first floor. The buffets feature a great variety of excellent food. For breakfast, a sample spread would be scrambled eggs with tomatoes, herbs, mushrooms and sausages, cheese, ham, and cereal with milk, toast with jam or honey, baked goods, various fruit salads, sliced apart a watermelon and melon. At dinner, enjoy Turkish specialties, such as grilled fish and lamb, all kinds of vegetable salads, and desserts such as baklava, pudding, Turkish Delight, fruit and ice cream. During each meal in the hall with live music, and on Thursdays (the “Turkish Night”) there’s national Turkish music played by an excellent quartet. The majority of the hotel guests are wealthy Turks and Jordanians, as well as quite a number of Germans, British, and Russians.
What to eat
There are a number of good restaurants located outside Barbados Caddesi. Check out the cafe and enjoy a good Caria “meze” (delicious selection of appetizers). On the nearby street of Haci Mustafa Sokagi enjoy a cocktail at the Scorpion Bar Scorpion. Then head to the castle mound and the Panorama restaurant, where you can enjoy sweeping port and sea views.
For a truly fantastic restaurant, head to Park Flora Restaurant (Gokbel Cad. 182). Tables are located next to large windows in the form of arches, with a beautiful view over the bay of Marmaris. This is an ideal spot for a romantic dinner of Mediterranean and Turkish cuisine, and at a quite reasonable cost.
Ziyade (Ulusal Egemenlik Cad. 18) is the perfect choice when you’re looking to get out of your hotel and sample true Turkish cuisine. Enjoy a cozy atmosphere, the sounds of Turkish music and a huge selection of local favorites. I tried and recommend the dolma (minced meat with rice wrapped in grape leaves), paltican salata (eggplant in tomato sauce), fresh pide (Turkish bread) and for dessert – sutlach (rice pudding).
Violet’s Restaurant (Inonu Cad. 8) operates 24 hours a day, seven days a week and is renowned for excellent cuisine, delicious freshly baked bread and desserts. Inside, everything shines with cleanliness and the friendly smiles of staff. You must try the strawberry cake for tea! Prices are very affordable.
If you’re craving Indian food, try the Taj Mahal Marmaris Restaurant (intersection of Ismet Kamil Oner Cd. and Kemal Seyfettin Elgin Blvd.) which serves excellent curries and has very friendly, attentive staff. At the entrance one of the servers offers you samples of some of the dishes. If you are looking for a real curry or a great chicken Madras with chicken, you’ve come to the right place. Portions are generous and well spiced. A full dinner for two including drinks will run about $60. Request to be seated on the second floor terrace, where you can watch the people go by on the lively street below.
For a quick meal or substantial snack, try a donor kebab, which is available just about everywhere. Personally, I rarely managed go indifferently past these kiosks, whenever I was even the slightest bit hungry. The tantalizing aroma simply drew me like a magnet. Just imagine: the thin pita bread pocket stuffed with marinated and freshly grilled chicken or lamb, together with fresh onions, carrots, herbs and tomatoes, then rolled up nicely in a plump fragrant sandwich.
What to see
Marmaris Castle was rebuilt in 1522 by Suleyman the Magnificent, as part of his campaign to seize control of Rhodes, since he used Marmaris as his base. Built at the same time as the castle is a small caravanserai (roadside inn) in the Old Town, which is considered a typical example of Ottoman architecture. The caravanserai is surrounded by graceful arches and consists of 8 rooms – one large and seven small. Today, these rooms house plenty of souvenir shops.
Marmaris is divided in half by Egemenlik Boulevard. If you walk on it at the east through the cobweb narrow streets, you can come across on the small lock in the Kaleici, which houses archaeological and ethnographic museum.
If you walk from the waterfront area along the side of the bridge, passing a monument to Ataturk, you can stumble upon an unusual monument –an astronaut with the inscription “NASA” on his chest. It was intriguing to see, in this beachfront resort town, this commemoration of a U.S. astronaut, James Reilly II, who carried the Turkish flag and Marmaris pennant into space on a 1998 space mission.
The Tomb of Sariana (hill northeast of Marmaris) was erected in memory of the 16th century prophet Sariana. Suleyman the Magnificent visited her tomb on his way to Rhodes, and after a favorable prophesy, he successfully laid siege to Rhodes. Locals believe that her tomb continues to be the source of oracles and wise counsel. There is a more recently built adjoining mosque.
Don’t miss an excursion to Cleopatra Island, close to Marmaris. A double-decker ferry will take you through the waves to this magical place. On the way there climb up to the open deck, sunbathe and enjoy a dazzling beautiful views. According to the legend, on the orders of Mark Antony, tons of white sand from the Sahara desert were taken to the island, to create its beaches and the sea floor. As shown by research scientists, similar sand exists only in the northern part of Africa and indeed was introduced to the island many centuries ago. When you walk into the crystal clear water, there comes this soft white sand, time flies! It was here that I first learned to really swim. Who knows, maybe there is something magical about this place.
Photos: Alina Salakhova, Alex Kehr, nechbi