Relaxing, Romantic Getaway to Majorca

Why go

Of the three Balearic Islands, Majorca (or Mallorca) is by far the best one, for travelers looking for a place to relax and enjoy a day at the beach. The island boasts hundreds of miles of beaches, small towns that still serve as inspiration to artists rather than as overbuilt resorts, and a capital city–Palma–that has enough nightlife to keep most jetsetters satisfied until they make their way over to Ibiza.

And yet, Majorca is also a lot more than just sun and fun, with short bus or train rides to the interior or northern parts of the island opening up a world of beautiful mountains dotted with olive and orange trees. And while continental Europe is freezing during winter, things are downright balmy in parts of Mallorca..

Even though millions of visitors head to Mallorca each year, it's still possible to find parts of this relatively small island that feel remote, where outdoor activities are encouraged. There are more than enough hiking and biking trails, many of which reward travelers with truly-stunning views of the island's edge and the sea after less than a mile of time on a trail. This is an island where there are still random abandoned architectural triumphs, and goats roaming freely at the foot of them. Whether it's tucking into an old-fashioned restaurant and enjoying free shots of their locally-bottled booze or finding the latest after-hours extravaganza, people of all backgrounds will find something to do in Palma, the gateway to the island. As the biggest city, you might be tempted to spend most of your time here, but you'd be missing out on the real beauty of the island–after all, you never know when the next sleepy beachside town is going to turn into Ibiza.

If my money's on a single part of the island that deserves the most amount of your attention, it's Port de Soller, or just plain Soller. Located north of Palma, it's easy to get to by both bus and a very beautiful train ride, but a world apart from the more overbuilt and touristy beach towns that dot the island's coast. Things might not stay sleepy and quiet for long, because people are definitely eying this beautiful small village with olives, oranges, and lighthouses, but for now, it's possible to find a local property owner who will rent you an apartment for less than 100 Euros a day with breathtaking views of the entire port, if you like. Many of the villages around Port de Soller were once the haunts of artists who needed some “inspiration time,” so an apt comparison would be to say that Soller and the surrounding area is not unlike Northern California in its artistic heyday or even the earlier years of Provincetown on Cape Cod.

Insider Tips

• This cannot be stressed enough: try to go during the off-season. For many different reasons, avoiding Mallorca during July and August is a brilliant idea. For one, you'll save a lot of money, since that's peak travel time. For another, that's when the island turns into a sea of pasty tourists and things get a little less pleasant. I've been told by people who vacation there each summer that unless you’re squeamish about slightly cooler water for swimming, swimming is do-able until October, so there shouldn't be a rush to come during the summer months.

• Another note on the off-season: prices are a whole lot lower then, and the scenery is just as beautiful. This is particularly pertinent for those who are more interested in going hiking, taking in beautiful views, and enjoying fine dining than working on a tan on the beach every single day, though that's possible most months of the year, too.

• Consider Soller. It's not the best known village on the island, but Port de Soller could be the next sleepy waters-edge town turned hot resort property. I was there one February and tastefully-planned buildings were going up left and right. Getting from Palma to Soller is a breeze thanks to a beautiful old train, and you'll know you're getting close to the small town when the smell of oranges has practically intoxicated you.

• While you're trying the ham, don't forget to try the wine. A lot of the local wine is absolutely incredible, and most of the smaller vineyards don't have the manpower to export to the States, so don't miss out on your shot to taste some of Spain's best and most obscure wine while you're on the island.

• If you're flying from continental Europe, shop around European budget airlines for the best deals. For instance, Air Berlin was offering some very reasonable prices from Lisbon to Palma in the off-season that beat Spain's national airline tickets by a significant amount.

• The best way for most travelers to explore Majorca is by renting a car. The cost of car rental is quickly offset by the ease with which one can see the entire island, visiting whichever towns sound interesting and catching views of some of the most stunning coves and secluded spots on the entire island. Pre-booking a car rental can substantially lower the price, by as much as 30 percent–and is a must during high season. In the low season, the cost is between 40 and 50 Euros a day for a mid-range car. High season prices can triple during the particularly busy months.

Where to stay

Picking a place to stay in Majorca is about more than simply deciding on whether or not you want a room in a hotel or a more spacious beach bungalow: it is also about actually picking a specific town or city on the island. Most of the locals live in Palma, and with so much of the nightlife situated here as well as a number of beaches, there are those who stick to the island's biggest city for the duration of their vacation. Accommodations in Palma vary from luxury hotels to very bare bones budget hotels, all with a surprisingly summery feel, even if visiting during the winter months. Palma also has the lion's share of restaurants, so for anyone in town for only a couple of days, it might be wise to stay here and plan day trips out to explore other parts of the island.

However, those in search of a more independent or laid-back travel experience might find that other parts of the island are more to their liking. Aside from Palma, the most popular and one of the fastest growing towns on the whole island is Soller, a former orange grove paradise in the north with a beautiful bay and a short drive to both the island’s best hiking and some of its finest beaches. In addition to a growing number of hotels in Soller, there is an extensive network of apartment rentals and vacation homes, often at prices that are significantly better than what one pays in Palma for something far inferior.

Just a short walk from the town center of charming Soller, Hotel Salvia is a wonderful little boutique hotel, housed in a beautifully restored 19th century mansion. Its 6 stunning suites are each uniquely and elegantly decorated, with large windows overlooking the hotel's romantic garden, beautiful Mallorcan floor tiles, and fine period furniture. Enjoy al fresco dining in the garden, a refreshing dip in the pool, or a relaxing massage. The hotel's staff is friendly and service is superb. The perfect romantic hideaway for couples who enjoy luxury with a personal touch.

Where to eat

Our one night in Palma it was cold and a little bit dreary, perfect for a hearty and somewhat leisurely meal at Cellar Sa Premsa. It was one of those rare restaurants where the quaint decor wasn't shattered by a surprisingly high bill at the end of the evening. Complimentary shots of hard liquor infused with almonds were a part of every table's evening, with the owner or chef walking around the room and actually leaving the bottle on the table, like a boozy version of the honor system. An excellent spot for both meat and paella in all forms, and the best sausage I had while in Mallorca. We were one of two tables that weren't local when I ate here, but I'm pretty sure it's a whole different story in peak season.

During the off-season in Soller, options are a little bit more limited than, say, the busiest summer months. This is great for people who enjoy good food, as the restaurants that are still open have to be beloved by locals to survive. Es Raco des Port must do great business when it's busy, because they were a lot less empty than some of the other spots that were open. A short walk from pretty much anything else you'd be interested in doing in Soller in February, this is the go-to spot for an excellent taste of local cooking. If there's more than one of you, the paella is excellent to share, with tons of fresh mussels and squid. Daily specials go up on the chalkboard each day, and are reliably fresh and tasty. Going on my experience, dinner is a much better bet here than lunch.

Cafe Soller (Plaza Constitucion 13) is one of those stylish cafes where you're always going to be paying at least five euros for a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice that you can down in a couple of minutes, but that's not the point. The views of the port are great, there are a few outdoor tables to choose from if it's a sunny day, and it's the perfect spot to pop in if you just want a quick snack or a drink. The aforementioned overpriced orange juice was actually quite delicious (don't miss out on chances to have orange juice in Soller, because all of those orange groves surrounding the port are doing an excellent job making great fruit). If you want a break from fish-oriented dishes, this is a great place to have lunch, though I'm pretty certain they're closed for dinner (but that might have just been an off-season thing).

What to see and do

If you buy a postcard that doesn't have a picture of the beach or some oranges, chances are it will have a photograph of this Gothic cathedral on it instead. Catedral de Mallorca is important enough in the city that it doesn't really require a name more descriptive than “El Cathedral”–if you ask someone directions on how to get there, for instance, that will be good enough to get pointed in the right direction. It's definitely the most architecturally interesting building in all of Palma, and one of the largest structures on the whole island that isn't a high-rise hotel. This massive and impressive chuch took 400 years to finish and has been around in completed form since 1600. The original Gothic design was slightly modified by the acclaimed architect Gaudi, who added his own personal flourishes to a few spots in the interior. Open for both visitors and worshippers year-round, it's actually worth going just for the views of the ocean alone.

Years of sacking and rule by various Muslims have led to Majorca having more Muslim-influenced buildings than many other parts of Spain. Two of the most notable are the Palau de l'Almudaina, originally built as a castle by the Muslims but long used by the Spanish monarchy, which still occasionally holds functions there. Most of the time, however, the palace is filled with tourists browsing its exhibitions. Another popular landmark, the Banys Arabs (Arabic Baths) have been around for hundreds of years, and are even built using pieces of some of the original Roman buildings on the island.

One of the most famous resident artists of the island, Joan Miro, has his own museum at Fundacio Pilar i Joan Miro, where a vast collection of his various works are stored in a space that also functioned as his studio until his death.

For a more contemporary look at art, visitors head to the Museu d'Art Modern i Contemporari de Palma, where everyone from local legends to international stars have works on display.  The space itself has received accolades aside from the art, making it a popular structure to visit.

Each of the individual towns of Majorca usually has its own festivals and weekly events, from farmers markets to saints days. The best bet is to check the individual town Web sites to see what coincides with one's visit. All around popular activities include March's International Classic Car Rally, when those who love beautiful antique sports cars flock to the island from all over Europe and beyond. Not to be outdone, April's annual Palma de Mallorca Boat Show also attracts sailing enthusiasts from all over the world.

Easter is a major holiday for most Majorc ans, with Angel Sunday being celebrated all over the island. In Palma, there are often special parades and of course, a great deal of eating afterwards. Carnaval is also popular, with parades taking up most of Palma's streets and drums going strong for hours.

Okay, I might have said that Mallorca is a great choice for people who aren't looking for the Spring Break vibe of say, contemporary Ibiza, but Abraxas, a multi-floor club in Palma, is definitely worth checking out if you want at least one night that isn't under the stars but rather, under the flashing lights. Abraxas is not the only super-club in town, but it is possibly the one with the best genuine entertainment to sheer cheesiness ratio. It's open in winter as well as in summer and manages to pull in respectable talent throughout the year. When I was there, a resident DJ was playing some disco-influenced house that was a surprisingly nice break from excessive drum and bass or boring techno. If you're more into lounging than dancing, there's a bar for that, too, as well as a terrace on the roof. For a gigantic club, it has a surprisingly large number of unannoyed-looking women who aren't with guys, so perhaps it's a lot less meat-markety than other spots around the city.

Hiking enthusiasts should head to the beautiful Serra de Tramuntana Mountains.  Soller is right at the base of these mountains, offering a number of chances for those staying north of the port, more towards the mountains, the chance to head out on small day hikes that go right to the coast, where the land seems to suddenly drop into the sea. Those interested in something a little more intensive can get a trail map from any of the numerous tourist-oriented shops in Soller or Palma, and head off for a longer hike. There's something truly surreal about going from the bustling hedonistic nightlife of Palma to the beautiful silence amongst the pine trees, with only the crashing waves for sound. If you're remotely interested in outdoor activities, you can't miss a chance to go for a short hike. Be sure to remember your camera, too, and don't forget a sweater, even if it feels like it will stay warm all day. The weather can change suddenly no matter what the season.