From Modern Culture to Old-World Edifices: A Budget Guide to Kiev

Why Go

As the capital of Ukraine, Kiev has a rich history packed with exciting moments and plenty of contemporary culture. According to legend, the city's name comes from Kyi, one of the three brothers who founded the city. And since the city's beginning, Kiev has seen a bit of everything. From its beautiful Orthodox churches and monasteries to the construction of Soviet monuments to a fanatic embracing of capitalism, major changes in the past few decades mean this is one capital that's consistently changing.

Located on the Dnieper River, one thing budget travelers heading to Kiev might not realize is that the city is also quite beautiful in a natural way, with plenty of greenery and great spots for a picnic. During the warm months, there's nothing nicer than a ferry ride across the river and the chance to contemplate the beautiful city views over a mug of cold beer. It's almost impossible to miss the gleaming golden domes of Kiev's two UNESCO World Heritage Sites, a cathedral and an active monastery.

Modern Kiev has European flair and plenty of cafes, shopping, and entertainment options, so don't assume that Kiev's main draws are museums and elegant cathedrals. Budget travelers who are looking for a distinctive capital that has a lovely balance of nightclubbing and points of interest will find this a worthy pick for one's next vacation.

Insider Tips

Transportation in Kiev is very affordable and convenient. Kiev is large, so if you stay in the city center, you probably will have to travel by subway or on the mini-buses or shuttles to get to some of the places you want to see.

Every weekend (Saturday and Sunday), Khreshchatyk is pedestrianized and there are various festivals and entertainment. There’s often a stage with performances by Ukrainian and Russian pop singers, as well as occasional foreign artists. Every 50 meters or so, there are various roving artists and musicians, making for a lively and festive atmosphere.

In the warmer months, I recommend a walk along the Dnieper. Be sure to use the cable car and go down to the Postal Square and the waterfront from the Cathedral of St. Michael Monastery.

Be sure to stroll through the city in search of magnificent monuments off the beaten tourist path. For example, one interesting Kiev monument is of the city’s first tram, which started service on June 14, 1892.

Try to do most of your walking during the day. As with any large city, it’s best not to wander the streets alone at night—if you do go out, try to go in a group.

Meals in Kiev are typically quite reasonably priced, except for the most touristy areas and the most upscale establishments. Although you can of course find all kinds of cuisines, from Japanese to fast food, do try at least some of the Ukrainian specialties while in the city.

For souvenir shopping, Bessarabskiy Market in Khreshchatyk is fine for browsing, but avoid buying anything there, as it’s extremely touristy and prices are much higher than you’ll pay elsewhere. Kiev cake and Nemiroff vodka make good edible souvenirs and can be purchased in plenty of other locations around the city.

Where to Stay

Hotel Lybid (Victory Square, 1) is a good budget choice that is very centrally located and convenient to everything. While the Hotel Lybid itself was built in 1970, it was wholly renovated in 2002, meaning modern comfort. The hotel is basic but functional; all rooms have individually controlled and operated heating and air conditioning, and the TVs have a number of foreign as well as Ukrainian channels. Room rates for a standard double range from $70-$125, depending on the season. The Ukraine Department Store, the Botanical Gardens, and plenty of other landmarks are just a short walk from the hotel, making it a great pick for those who want an ideal location.

Those staying in the city for awhile or those who'd love the chance to feel more like a local should get in touch with Kiev Apartment, whose rentals provide a lot more space and the chance to be a bit more independent. Travelers can opt for entire apartments, not just hotel rooms, that begin at $67 a night. With chic and clean units located in the city's most bustling neighborhoods, it's a great way to get to know this capital city and an excellent option for savvy chefs interested in some self-catering.

What to Eat

An excellent and traditional dining experience can be had at Restaurant O ‘Panas‘ (Str. Tereschenkivska, 10). Servers are dressed in traditional Ukrainian garb, and the bustling atmosphere makes for a delightful meal. The restaurant has two halls – the bottom and top. While the garb and dishes might be traditional, the decor is definitely something more contemporary. Inside, there is a tiny living area with scurrying rabbits and a rooster, a small mill, and even the mighty trunk of a huge tree. The food is just as delightful as the setting, with a wonderfully delicious version of Ukrainian borscht with fritters and garlic, as well as a second version with braised potatoes and pork. My mouth waters simply remembering these dishes! If you're not a big fan of Ukrainian cuisine, there are European choices here, too. In the summer, the restaurant offers a terrace, where you can relax with a drink, admire the park, and listen to birds singing…it's simply beautiful!

For reasonably priced pizza that also happens to be quite delicious, Vesuvio Pizza (vul Reytarska 25) is a great place to pick up a slice. A hugely popular yet quiet enough pizzeria, its a reliable choice for a tasty way to start or end the day. For those who are traveling with laptops and who don't quite speak the local language all that well, it's also possible to order any number of the various pizzas from Vesuvio online, as well as their spaghetti dishes. Vesuvio Pizza is only one of the many options for affordable and familiar snacking around Kiev, so those who are looking for something that reminds them of home won't have to wander far; there's plenty available.

Another great pick for cheap eats around the city are Ukrainian pancakes, which can be grabbed at a number of cafes around the city. Pancakes are generally prepared to order, so they are always fresh and tasty, and plenty of different toppings will keep travelers full and happy. Those who are expecting American-style pancakes should be aware that these are going to be a bit more like crepes. Plenty of other cafes focus more on pastry items and coffee, and are a great way to sneak a peek at local life. It's possible to sit for hours watching the passerby, and on a warm summer day, there's no better way to spend the afternoon (though it's just as fun to get a warm beverage and stare out a frosty window during the chillier months).

For a hip and fun cafe experience, Pasazh (Pasazh Lypky) is one of the numerous spots to people-watch on the hip Pasazh Street. It's a nice spot for cakes, especially when the weather is nice and the outdoor seating can be taken advantage of. Pasazh Street in general is a bustling spot where it can sometimes be difficult to find a free seat!

What to See and Do

The National Art Museum of Ukraine is dedicated to Taras Shevchenko, an outstanding Ukrainian poet, writer, artist who is often credited as the founder of modern Ukrainian literature. The museum was founded during World War II in 1943 after the liberation of Kiev from the Nazis. Taras Shevchenko worked in the field of painting and mastered techniques in watercolor and oil. He also did drawings in pencil and pen. Many of his paintings are devoted to landscapes and sea themes, and the museum has about 70,000 pieces of his personal belongings, paintings and books. Look for his self portrait, painted in 1840. His young but already weary face seems to say that he knows what awaits him in the future, with time as a prisoner and in exile.

Saint Sophia Cathedral is located in the heart of Kiev, and is very much the heart of the city's culture and architecture, too. Historians and visitors alike come to see and enjoy the wonder of the cathedral’s Byzantine and ancient architecture, and anyone who crosses the threshold of the cathedral will be captivated by the striking figure of the praying Virgin Mary. In contrast to other samples of Byzantine church art, frescoes in the cathedral are not devoted solely to biblical themes, but also to more mundane subjects – among of them family portraits of Grand Duke Yaroslav.

Rebuilt after World War II, Maydan Nezalezhnosti is a hugely popular meeting spot for locals that suddenly received international attention during the Orange Revolution in the autumn of 2004. For those interested in Ukraine politics, taking a walk here is essential, as the area was the center of public protest and the site of one of the nation's most important political speeches. Even those who aren't as up to date on politics will appreciate a stroll around the square, as it has everything from street vendors to snake charmers. It tends to get the most packed on weekends and on warm summer days, and it's a spot where keeping a hand on one's wallet might be a good idea.

The Botanical Garden (Metro: University) occupies over 5000 meters and was founded May 22, 1839. You can visit during any season, as the botanical garden includes 17 indoor greenhouses where you can always see palm trees, cacti, agave, and other exotic plants. However, spring is especially beautiful. If there in spring, be sure to visit the lovely magnolia grove, which, when in full bloom, is simply gorgeous! Located in the historic center of Kiev the botanical garden is considered the “green pearl” of the capital.

Kiev-Pechersk Lavra (Metro: Arsenal, trolleybus 20 to “Lavra” stop) is set on the high hills of the right bank of the Dnieper River. This cradle of the Orthodox faith rises majestically, crowned with gleaming golden domes. It certainly endured trying times. After the October Revolution of 1917, the Soviet Government decreed the separation of church and state, and all the property of the Church and religious societies was declared to be the property of the people. The church’s previously strong community was isolated, some members sent to the gulags, and the monastery eliminated. Today, however, the monastery is once again active and devout believers make pilgrimages here frequently.

Sauna “Heat” (Darnitskiy Blvd, 5 Metro: Darnica, Tel: (063) 869-28-49) is well worth visiting for a quintessentially Russian and Ukrainian sauna experience. The sauna is two rooms: one for $120/hour and the second for 150$/hour, which includes a lounge. Our one large room included a 2×2 pool, a moon-shaped shower for two, and a sauna for a maximum of five persons. There was also a section with a table, sofa, and television. A couple of recommendations: bring two towels, slippers, and soap with you. And go easy on alcohol beforehand–it gets hot in there!

The Kiev Zoo (Metro: Polytechnic Institute) might not normally be on your itinerary unless you have kids, but in addition to the usual suspects of lions, tigers, giraffes and so forth, there’s a very beautiful conservatory with butterflies. There are many that look like strange exotic flowers, with huge wingspans. There’s also a tropical forest with banana, citrus, lemon, coffee, avocado, palm, and other trees, making it a nice choice for those who enjoy green spaces. The Kiev Zoo is open daily from 9am until 6pm, except on Mondays, when it's closed.