Why go
Lisbon is the great undiscovered capital of Europe, and people are starting to notice. Ethnic restaurants and swank hotels seem to be popping up around the capital as affordable pensaos and mom-and-pop seafood restaurants with views of the water manage to hang on just the same. At times, from certain views around town, it's possible to think you're in San Francisco, California, with cable cars making their way up the windy streets of Bairro Alto and hilltop views of expansive bridges.
Best of all, while the rest of Europe deals with winter and shorter days, Lisbon is mostly sunny and temperate year-round. I still remember the sweet relief of arriving from Amsterdam and soaking in bright noonday sun for what must have been the first time in at least a month.
At every twist and turn, there's some hidden mosaic or beautiful and intricate tile pattern, another picture-perfect classic European square, or even a castle or church that dates back thousands of years. And once night falls, it seems as though every tourist, party animal, or university student is out in the streets of Bairro Alto, sipping from an open container while making plans to dance until dawn at the latest hot club.
Insider tips
- Shop around a lot for hotels, and check Web sites if necessary. With so many boutique spots and big chains opening up in Lisbon, sometimes prices are through the roof for no good reason, while down the street, something is still dirt cheap. For a really great deal, the penasos down in the Baixa neighborhood offer inexpensive and clean, though dubiously decorated, rooms in family-run joints. Just don't expect to charge it–most of those spots only take cash. Usually, a private bathroom is only 5 extra Euros, so don't think that a pensao means having to share a bathroom with other backpackers or travelers.
- Get out of the historic center during mealtime. You will get overcharged for a sub-par meal with zero ambiance. It's comparable to attempting to enjoy the fine dining of New York City and instead getting sucked into some horrible Times Square tourist trap. Don't do it. The best restaurant is often the smaller corner affair, where there isn't a tourist menu propped up on a stand in front of the door.
- Traditional Portuguese fare is fresh and very lightly seasoned. Expect a piece of seafood or meat that's been grilled to perfection in the center of a plate, with potatoes on one side of it and a vegetable on the other. Olive oil, salt, lemon, and a dash of pepper are all the spice you get, but that really is all the flavor you need.
- If you're at a restaurant and a spread of bread, cheese, and other snacks gets laid out, you're not receiving exceptionally kind service–everything you take a bite of will be added to your bill.
- Don't scoff at the table wine–or the local wine in general. While Portuguese wine might not be getting the same rave reviews that wines from Italy and France have been receiving for years, it's becoming just as good. Best of all, because it doesn't come with the same name recognition, it's possible to enjoy a bottle of delicious wine for a lot less than in, say, Paris or Milan. Often times, the house wine is just as good as something off of the wine list, so don't shy away from the low price–and don't forget to save room at the end of the meal for a glass of port.
- If you have more than a couple of days in Lisbon, get out of town! While the rest of Europe's beaches, especially those in Spain, are usually crawling with tourists, Portugal has managed to avoid that tourist crunch just yet…and with miles and miles of coastline and trains leaving from the city to a number of far-flung beach resorts around the country, there's no reason not to cough up less than 40 Euros and spend a day at the beach.
- Sometimes, restaurants with live fado shows will charge upwards of a 20 Euro cover. If that's a little too steep for you, just find an outside table at another restaurant without a show, and enjoy not just the sounds of the whole neighborhood, but the occasional drifting of the fado performers. At some point, however, it's definitely worth sitting down and listening to some of the tragically sad and beautiful songs sung by women who weren't sure if their fishermen husbands were ever going to make it back home.b
Where to stay
Make no mistake about it, Pensao Prata is budget lodging. For those looking for luxury–or at least tasteful monochromatic interiors–you're not going to find it in this family-run walk-up just steps from some of the most popular tourist attractions in Baixa. But for those travelers who find something charming and appealing in low, low prices and vintage bedspreads, this is a great deal.
Some rooms come with bathrooms, others just have showers, and a couple of them share a communal bathroom, which is painstakingly cleaned each and every day. Ring the bell to get in after a day of sightseeing, and leave your room key at the front desk, which is a whole lot of wood paneling all at once. Views to the water if you crane your head, and French-style windows to swing open and enjoy the breeze and the sights of the cobblestone road below will have you feeling confident that you spent less than 50 Euros on a great location. Just be prepared for the trade-off of high ceilings for smaller beds.
Located on one of the most central and regal streets in all of Lisbon, the NH Liberdade is a great choice for travelers who want something reliable and a little upscale. Cable television, sinfully comfortable beds, and pristine bathrooms with huge bathtubs are the draw here. Rooms are huge, especially considering you're in a prime location in a European capital city; expect desks, mini-fridges, and plenty of space. The downside? A price that's a little higher than reasonable, especially during peak season. However, the NH often has deals on its Web site, with savings possible of almost 20 percent off of the cost of your stay. There's a rooftop pool, an on-site restaurant, and Internet and a printer in the entrance area, in case your computer is acting up and you don't feel like heading to an Internet cafe for some printing or email checking.
While Lisbon in increasingly sprouting boutique hotels, a couple of places manage to do a low-key version that's somewhere between an actual boutique hotel and a mom and pop. Located just up the street from some of the biggest chain names in the city, Dom Sancho is a short walk from some of the city's most expensive shopping and biggest tourist attractions. The building has been lovingly restored, and instead of a towering concrete monolith, you get something that's been there for a long time. Rooms on the front have small terraces overlooking Avenida da Liberdade, and the smooth wooden floors are in tip-top condition. The only downside, again, is that the price tag seems a little high for something that offers its guests a little bit more than two night tables, a bed, and a television.
Where to eat
Sometimes, it's just time for something other than masterfully prepared salmon and cod. Bairro Alto is the neighborhood for those seeking ethnic food, and Ali-A-Papa (95 R. da Atalalia) is the cutest and most romantic restaurant out of them all has the best couscous I've had this side of Morocco (and I returned to Lisbon from Morocco with Moroccan couscous fresh on my mind, so that's saying a lot). Expect to bump elbows or chairs with other diners, as this restaurant walks the line between cozy and cramped, but fabulous decor and kind and laid-back servers keep it in the cute territory. Don't miss a chance to try the olives or cheese appetizers, both out of this world, and the chicken couscous with cinnamon is the clear choice out of all of the entrees–unless you are a vegetarian, in which case, unlike so many restaurants in the city, you're actually welcome to your own options.
Okay, okay, this breaks the rule of avoiding restaurants in the historic center, I know. But it's worth it for Cafe Nicola (24 Praca Dom Pedro IV). One of the oldest cafes overlooking Rossio Square, this cafe has seen its share of history, from clandestine political meetings to flocks of tourists looking for some of the best baked goods in the whole city. It manages to maintain a balance of feeding hungry travelers and local businesspeople alike, with a bakery and counter up front for grabbing a quick bite to go, and a small section of tables for those who want to take advantage of the surprisingly affordable lunch specials, all of which are huge. It's one of the least touristy restaurants I've ever seen tourists go to, and it is commendable that they aren't gouging foreigners with higher prices.
With so many restaurants serving up traditional Portuguese cuisine, it's tough to think of one in particular to recommend, especially since after a couple of meals, they start to blur together a little bit. A Minha Maneira (1 Largo do Terreiro do Trigo) is a cozy spot situated at the end of some winding narrow streets where you're more likely to encounter women hanging their laundry than hordes of English-speakers, serves up some of the freshest grilled fish and meat in the whole city. Even better, it's actually cute, too! Prices are tailored more for the neighborhood than for visitors who might happen to stroll by. I've only been to dinner, but hear their lunch specials are worth the trip alone. An excellent place to try cod, salmon, or sardines. Don't miss their soups, either.
What to do
Lisbon may be unique in that it is a modern city with the highest castle-to-square mile ratio around. Castles aren't just around the city, they're actually straddling the line between historical sight and functional space. Located uphill in the Alfama section of Lisbon, Castelo De Sao Jorge has been around for over a thousand years. History buffs will love visiting because of the stories of the castle changing hands time after time while new groups of people conquered the city, while those enchanted with architecture will simply enjoy seeing the towers. Even if you're not that interested in history or architecture, the castle is worth visiting because you literally round a corner in a village-y neighborhood, and there it is. The views from the castle are also some of Lisbon's absolute best, and that's really saying something.
Even if you're not that into tile, after exploring Lisbon by foot for a day, you might be won over and want to learn more about why seemingly normal streets sometimes dead-end into walls with beautiful mosaics you'd think should be viewed in a museum somewhere. While a day of tile-hunting might be fun, a visit to Museu Nacional do Azulejo is even better. There are plenty of tiles to admire, both in the courtyards or the museum itself, but the real draw is the chance to learn just about anything you ever wanted to know–and a lot of things you didn't know you were interested in–about tile. Where it came from, how it came to be so popular in Lisbon…it's a veritable cornucopia of tile-related information, with a significant portion of Lisbon history, too.
While some of Lisbon's cooler bars might be a little more out of the way, there's no better street to wander while looking for a suitable watering hole than Rua Da Barroca. The least windy street of Bairro Alto, it's a main drag of sorts that gets going early and ends up absolutely packed by about 2am. Every possible theme bar you could imagine exists, from corny takes on American blues to chic and minimal spots with typical Berlin techno blasting. Among the cheesier fare are some genuinely fun hole-in-the-walls with sangria pitchers and potent Brazilian booze drinks in to-go cups so you can continue on your way. Every couple of spots or so, there will be a bar that attracts a less collegiate crowd, usually with more swanky decor or lounges where well-dressed locals are reclining on pillows and sipping fancy martinis.
Related Posts
Best Frequent Flyer Miles for London Award Travel
Tips for Booking Award Flights to Paris
Which Frequent Flyer Miles for Intra-Europe Flights?
Frequent Flyer Awards Low Fee Backup Options
Need Award Booking Help? Our fee is as low as $75 per ticket if you book your hotel through us.
If you enjoyed this, join 90,000+ readers: please follow TravelSort on Twitter or like us on Facebook to be alerted to new posts.
Become a TravelSort Client and Book Your Hotel with Virtuoso or Four Seasons Preferred VIP Amenities!
Photos: McPig, NH Liberdade, Whitney Weiss