Why Go
Segovia is an enchanting ancient city, dating back over 2,000 years. Visitors enjoy some of most beautiful architecture in this part of central Spain, including the astonishingly intact Roman Aqueduct, a breathtaking Moorish-medieval castle (Alcazar) and a stunning gothic Cathedral. In fact, it has so many lovely landmarks that UNESCO declared the entire walled-in old town a protected World Heritage site in 1985. Its winding narrow streets, charming squares, delightful artisan shops, and year-round moderate weather, make it the perfect location for couples seeking a romantic holiday in an idyllic setting.
In Segovia, there is a little bit of history to observe at every turn. If you combine this activity with a stroll through its lovely gardens and picturesque landscapes, you have the ideal backdrop for a storybook romance. Indeed, with all that this magnificent city has to offer, it comes as no surprise that it has become a popular haven for visiting couples in love.
Insider Tips
- The best months to visit Segovia are in May-June and September-November when the weather is at its most moderate and pleasant. Also, as it is a small city that depends on its seasonal tourism, many restaurants either close early or do not open at all in the evenings until late April.
- Segovia is easily accessible by the AVE fast train, which runs daily from the Madrid Chamartin train station, at a cost of 10 euros each way and only takes about 30 minutes. Once arrived in Segovia, there is a free shuttle service that takes you into the center of town.
- If possible, avoid visiting in the late summer months or early winter months as the temperatures can either reach an overbearing 100 degrees in the summer and there is usually plenty of rain in the winter. Locals traditionally take their afternoon naps (siestas) between 1pm and 4pm to avoid the sweltering heat.
- Segovia is an old city with many old cobble-stoned roads and an uphill walk to the old town. It is best to wear comfortable shoes during your walking explorations.
- Although there are good public buses, the free shuttle conveniently stops near the aqueduct or at the foot of the old town. Segovia is meant to be explored on foot, so with that in mind, walk to monuments or other places of interest whenever possible
- Due to the size and location of Segovia, apart from the very basic phrases, locals do not tend to speak anything other than Spanish. That said, the tourist office found right outside the AVE train station has a friendly helpful staff and maps in English. Furthermore, this gives you the opportunity to brush up on your own basic phrasing skills!
- Locals tend to eat dinner after 8pm; you usually won’t find a restaurant open before then. If you would prefer to have your meal sooner, opt to try some tapas in the main squares which are always opened before dinnertime.
Where to Stay
As Segovia is surrounded by the picture-perfect Guadarrama Mountains, travelers seeking accommodations with exceptional views will find several interesting options. For a wonderfully secluded stay just 10 minutes from the city, choose the impressive Parador de Turismo de La Granja. A parador is a state-run restored hotel facility, often a former castle, monastery, fortress, or other building that celebrates the historic heritage of the country. By the usual standards, this hotel stands out but by its curious combination of old versus new. It is located in an 18th century former royal residence with adjoining modern structures and up-to-the minute facilities. The rooms in this exquisite hotel are comfortable and tastefully decorated. Lovers will surely enjoy the remarkable surrounding views and hospitable service. Luxury suites at this exclusive establishment start at about 425 euros per night.
A good choice for travelers who prefer to be in the center of things is the charming Hotel Infanta Isabel, located right on the Plaza Mayor (the main square) in the old town. This cozy hotel boasts an excellent proximity to all of the main attractions, as well as spacious rooms and classic style. If available, book one of their inviting couple’s suite packages which include: chocolates, flowers, fruit and a welcome bottle of cava (Spanish “champagne”) in an ample king-sized room with excellent views and a whirlpool bath. Prices for this option begin at 210 euros per night.
For visitors on a tight budget, opt for the well-kept Las Sirenas Residencia located a short distance from the center. This cozy hotel features spotless rooms with some even including wonderful views of the peaceful courtyard. Prices here begin at a reasonable 65 euros per night.
What to Eat
The cuisine of Segovia is typical Castilian fare which consists of predominately meat, beans and heavy stews. The two most recognized meat dishes are cordero asado (roasted lamb) and cochinillo asado, (roasted suckling pig) both usually served with potatoes and accompanying local red wine. For couples wishing to experience authentic local cuisine, then Restaurante Jose Maria is a definite “must”. This centrally located venue is considered to be an authority on regional cooking and features large dining areas with high-beamed ceilings, historical details with wood furnishings. Main courses at this local favorite begin at 15 euros per person.
If you are interested in trying inventive tapas at very affordable prices, then stop by a number of local cafés and bars found open prior to dinnertime either in the center or by the aqueduct. Traditionally, if you order a beer or a glass of wine, a tapas sample is included in the price. This is a great activity to spend either relaxing while observing the scenery or gazing into each other’s eyes. Afterwards try a delicious pastry at Limon y Menta, a tiny bakery found right of the main square. A good option would be a ponce cake, a delightful morsel made out of marzipan.
If you prefer modern settings in a more intimate environment, then book a table at Di Vino, a contemporary restaurant that combines traditional cooking with updated fusion flavors and a fantastically extensive wine list. The price for a tasty three-course menu is a pleasant 28 euros per person.
What to See and Do
The spectacular architecture found all around Segovia is a marvel to withhold. Walk around the extraordinarily-preserved Roman Aqueduct and spend awhile pondering how such a superior structure was built all those centuries ago.
Take a coffee break on the Plaza Azoguejo the start of the old part of Segovia and found directly below the aqueduct. Once you have had your fill, take your loved one on a leisurely walk up the charming narrow streets toward the old city center and feel yourselves transported back in time. Take the time to visit the enchanting 12th century Alcazar, with its ornate medieval style, regal turrets, maze-like gardens and romantic setting. This particular former royal palace is so special that it is said to be the inspiration for the iconic Disney Castle, as drawn by Walt Disney himself. Continue your exploration a little further up at the Plaza Major where you can visit the impressive 16th century Cathedral de Santa Maria. If time permits, make sure you take in this stunning gothic-style landmark at night when it is completely lit up. Other notable landmarks in the immediate area include the 13th century San Esteban Church-featuring a very distinctive tower- and the 12th century San Millan, considered the oldest standing church in town.
If you spend more than a few days in town then an excellent adventure that you can engage in together is a daytrip to the glorious Royal Palace at La Granja San Ildefonso, just 15 mins away by car. This 18th century masterpiece was fashioned after Versailles in France and served as a hunting lodge, a monastery and most recently as the summer residence for the Spanish royal family for nearly 200 years. After visiting the palace at your leisure, take a romantic stroll around the exquisite gardens, which is so inviting with its many flowers, bronze statues, and twenty-six beautifully carved fountains. Although not more than four or five of these fountains run at once on a regular basis, there are special occasions when all 26 proudly spout at the same time.
As Segovia is an old historic city, the kind of shopping goods that you would find here is mostly tourist trinkets and mementos. That said, if you take the time to explore the small streets of the old town you may come across some worthwhile finds such as leather goods, unique artwork, and elaborate glassware. With a little luck, this may also prove to be a valuable activity when you come across the perfect object that will forever remind you of the memorable time spent in this idyllic postcard setting.
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Photos: Ignacio Conejo, Bikes and Books, Jeanelly Moncada, Paul McClure