Camel Trekking in Morocco

Camel shadows in the desert, Morocco

Why Go?

It’s true, there’s a lot to be said of sitting at a charming Casablanca café sipping sweetened Moroccan mint tea, whiling away hours in the meandering medieval streets of Fes, or enjoying the night entertainment in the Great Square of Marrakesh. In the cities, you won’t have to miss a shower, you won’t risk contracting a case of severe sandy-shoe, and you certainly won’t have to step in piles of camel dung on your way to the “bathroom” in the middle of the night.

However, you also won’t get what could possibly be one of the most memorable (even, dare I say, transcendant?) experiences of your life. There’s not much I can say about the desert that won’t sound clichéd—never seen the stars brighter, dunes for miles, blah blah blah, but it’s all true. Imagine you’re on a camel in the darkness. There’s nothing but the rhythmic plod of cloven feet sinking into sand and the languid roll of muscles under the blankets you sit on. Behind you is the dim glow of the desert fortresses and hotels from whence you came what seems like an age ago. In front of you, the enigmatic Berber camel guide who has been steadfastly ignoring you lights a cigarette; the orange point of its burn bobs up and down, disembodied, a tiny beacon in the black.

As the last signs of civilization sink below the horizon, the panic alarm in your brain begins to sit up and take notice. Hey, it says. You don’t know where you are right now. Why are you alone in the desert with someone you can’t even communicate with? Where is he taking you? What if there is no Berber tent? What if he attacks you and breaks both your legs and abandons you here for dead and you freeze to death or die of thirst or just wander around for days on your elbows dragging your limp and useless legs behind you until you breath your last feeble and ignoble breaths?! You start searching the sky for constellations that could serve as a guide home and imagine the Han Solo cutting open the Tauntaun for warmth over and over again. In the midst of your rural crisis, though, you look up. And suddenly it’s wonder instead of terror that consumes you.

Now, I’ve been hiking in the middle of nowhere before. I’ve seen a starry sky unpolluted by the city’s lights. But there is nothing that can compare to the canopy of stars I saw in the Moroccan desert that night. The world was just…immense. It was so silent, I could hear each flutter of breath in my chest. No camera can capture the feeling.

So you should go.

Sunrise in the desert, Morocco

Insider Tips

Be a hard negotiator when it comes to setting the terms of your tour package, and don’t give in to anything that deviates from the terms once you come to an agreement. We found Moroccans to be very friendly, but serious wheelers and dealers nonetheless.

Hospitality is a big thing. Expect to be served tea wherever you go, whether it’s a shop or a home. It’s fine to accept, as the water has been boiled. I’d avoid tap water otherwise and carry bottled. Fresh juice is fine, too, but get it without ice.

Bring bottled water with you on your desert trip. Bring a small flashlight or headlamp, too, if you have one.

Don’t be lured into the misconception that Morocco is a warm-weather paradise just because its Mediterranean and deserty. Check the temperatures for your time of year and pack lots of layers—it can be absolutely freezing at night while still being t-shirt weather during the day.

Morocco loves to tout that it is a secular country, and it’s true that traveling as a woman, you won’t encounter the same types of restrictions as you would in other parts of the Muslim world. That said, Marrakesh aside, very few women are on the streets at night. Be prepared to walk into a café filled with men watching soccer and have every head turn your way. You’ll be welcome, you just might feel a little awkward.

Touristy places everywhere speak English. Aside from that, in the big cities, French is definitely the easiest way to get around. Once you get into smaller towns and more rural areas, we found if you didn’t speak Arabic, your next best bet was actually Spanish.

Crossing the street is a harrowing experience as there are often no lights. When in doubt, cross with a herd of locals.

Take the usual precautions when traveling anywhere, but Morocco overall seemed safe. Women should expect a lot of catcalling, however.

You can’t throw toilet paper into most toilets in Morocco—it’s bad for the septic system. Instead, throw your used tissue into the garbage bin next to the toilet.

Sunset in Fez, Morocco

Where to Stay

There are many cheap hostels and small hotels to be found everywhere. If your budget is higher, try staying in a riad, an old home that has been converted into a hotel. These are often the most beautiful and comfortable places.
In the desert, I’d skip the big hotels and opt for the camping Berber-style option. Most desert tours offer this type of experience, which usually includes staying in a straw shack (it’s not really a tent) with surprisingly comfortable bedrolls on carpets. This is a group experience that often includes camp-like entertainment like Berber drumming and cooking by the campfire. Ask for pictures when you are arranging your tour.
When choosing any accommodation, be sure to ask if hot water is available. Even if they say yes, you are still not generally guaranteed a real shower unless you’re paying higher prices at a nicer place.

Berber Straw Tent, Morocco

What to Eat

Tagine, which is any combination of foodstuffs cooked slowly in an earthenware pot, is a MUST. You will find many flavors and variations and it will be available at pretty much every place you go. Often, it is eaten in conjunction with couscous. Moroccan salad (usually a variation of chopped lettuce, tomatoes, onion, and green pepper tossed in oil, salt, and pepper) can be found everywhere as well.

Moroccan Chicken Tagine with Almonds

Any number of delectable pastry-like items await you in Morocco, ranging from simple Berber pancake rolls with honey to cornbread cakes to deserts as syrupy as baklava. My advice—eat everything and be adventurous.

Moroccan Bastilla

What to Do

In the desert, you’ll definitely want to ride a camel, stay overnight, and watch the sunrise the next morning. Whether you do all the Berber bling bling depends on personal preference. It’s neat, but I wouldn’t say it’s essential. There are three main choices for seeing sand dunes—Zagora, Erg Chebbi, and Erg Chigaga, approachable from the cities of Zagora, Merzouga, or Er foud. Unless you’re planning on spending more than a few weeks in Morocco, I’d say it’s easiest to book your desert tour in Marrakesh or Fez. They’ll arrange for transportation to the closest city by private car or pubic bus for you, then pick you up in a 4×4 to get into the desert, and from there go with the camels. You could also do a triangle: Fez to desert to Marrakesh or vice versa. There are some benefits to being in a private car, because there are some beautiful spots along the way where it’s nice to stop for a picture, a rest, or in some cases, playtime with the roadside monkeys.

Check the historical sites for Fez and Marrakesh—there are many beautiful old buildings, and Fez’s medieval streets are very picturesque—but in general the most interesting activity is wandering leisurely through the busy markets.

Lanterns in the Souk, Marrakesh, Morocco