A Visit to Odessa, Pearl of the Black Sea

Why Go

Alexander Puskin wrote of Odessa that it was a “second Paris,” and contemporary visitors will realize rather quickly why this city is known as the Pearl of the Black Sea. One of the most mysterious cities in the Ukraine, Odessa is full of unexpected stories, deep-rooted culture, and plenty of attractions. Once home to a large number of Greeks, Odessa still boasts incomparable Greek architecture and other touches from days gone by. Foodies will delight in the local cuisine, which is a melange of Jewish, French, and Russian flavors. And once the sun sets, Odessa's nightlife scene can begin, with plenty of clubs and live music venues to attract visitors very much living in the now. A visit means easily finding something to win over any traveler's heart, and plenty find themselves pleasantly surprised to be falling in love with the city.

Insider Tips

Odessans love and appreciate humor. If you do too, you’ll feel right at home. Each year on April 1 is Odessa’s Humor Parade on Deribasovskaya St., a hilarious spectacle, complete with obligatory packs of young, rowdy locals.

Public transportation in Odessa is very convenient. The best means of transportation are the mini buses, which run frequently along their respective routes. But you should know that there are no set stops, so you’ll need to shout to the driver exactly where you want to disembark.

Restaurants in the center are pretty much all overpriced, so unless you think that the difference in 5-7 hryvnia is worth it, you'll have to look for places that aren't right in the middle of the city.

If you arrived by plane, definitely do not get in any of the private taxis or accept rides from the men hawking them; only use official taxis, so that you aren’t scammed.

If you want to do some shopping, then don’t buy anything in the city center, where everything is unbelievably expensive. Instead, try the Seventh Kilometer Shop, where prices are a bit more reasonable.

Be very careful if you have a poor understanding of Russian; Odessa is in Ukraine, but there are practically no Ukrainians, only Russian speakers. And if Russians do not understand you or think you don’t understand them, you run the risk of overpaying for services and purchases.

If you do understand Russian, a good source for entertainment listings in Odessa is Odessa Globe, which lists happenings and other helpful information for visitors.

Where to Stay

It's not a cheap option, but the Hotel London in the heart of Odessa is worth the splurge. Rates range from $130 for a standard room, which means compared to some other lodging in the city, it's expensive. But each of the rooms boasts a lovely panoramic view, as well as satellite TV, phones with international lines, internet access, personal safes, and round-the-clock parking, a perk that's somewhat rare in the city. The architect who created the hotel in 2006 received a national award for the best architectural creation, and after guests look around, they will see why. Another major plus? It's air-conditioned, which is a rarity and an essential in the summer months.

Another option for travelers who want fine accommodations is the Hotel Continental, which is a comfortable business hotel with a famous classic edifice. A five-minute walk from The Opera House, Potemkin Stairs, and plenty of the other sights and sounds of Deribasovskaya Street, it's an ideal retreat for those who might want more space, as in addition to VIP and suite rooms, there are also apartments for rent. Expect comfortable facilities and an overall welcoming energy.

What to Eat

Cafe Compote is a great place on Deribasovskaya Street, especially for drink a fruit juice or freshly-squeezed lemonade. In the winter, you can warm up here with borscht. Everything is generally very tasty and not expensive, almost as if made by a local grandmother. It’s rather popular with expats and visitors, and all the waiters speak English. The only drawback of this place is that it’s always quite crowded.

For great snacks and farm-fresh fruits and vegetables Odessa Market (Одесский привоз) is the real deal. Constructed in 1827, this is where people still can enjoy great food shopping at bargain prices, haggle with salespeople, and sample the products for sale. This market is huge and international. For sale is a magnificent assortment of Greek, Japanese, local, and other delicacies.Note, however, that if you get there and sellers notice that you are a visitor (and it will be noticeable if your face lacks the appropriate dissatisfied expression upon hearing the price), then you will pay the tourist price. This is a fairly common technique in Odessa–if you're not from Odessa, it means you don’t know the local prices and will not bargain, that's what the local sellers assume.

What to See

Odessa Archaeological Museum is my favorite site of learning, and there are all sorts of delights for those who enjoy informative museum experiences. If you're interested in archaeological excavations and history, make sure you go to this museum, as it showcased a number of different excavated objects, including an actual mummy down in the basement. It's also a popular site for wedding photographs to be taken.

Built in 1884-1887, this Odessa Opera House is one of the finest architectural structures in the city. Getting tickets to a show can be very difficult, but considering the greats who have graced both the stage and the seats in the audience, it might be a worthwhile endeavor. Sometimes, the concierge at particular hotels can arrange for a ticket, though a visit to just tour the building and learn of its history may be worthwhile on its own.

The Potemkin Stairs also exude history. This spacious staircase is simply breathtaking, and the views of the sea from here are delightful. If you go down the stairs, then you’ll come to the funicular. You may also see elderly vendors selling various souvenir pins and such; if you’re lucky, you may discover some that are true vintage pieces. If the word “Potemkin” sound familiar, it's because the film “Battleship Potemkin,” which was shot in Odessa.

One of the biggest clubs in Western Europe, Club E is known for having everything from bowling to a strip bar and pool tables. Plenty of bands play here, there happens to be great jazz on Wednesdays, and occasionally, sons of famous composers sit in and play some music. The neighborhood around Club E is also a popular epicenter of nightlife for those who want to dance until the early hours.

Located in a more modern part of town packed with less tourists, the Naval Station can be a fun outing on its own. It's possible to sit on the boat and ride through the Black Sea, bringing along a loaf of bread and feeding birds along the way. The boat ride is a half hour long adventure for 30-50 hryvnia, and is particularly delightful during the summer months.

Right on the beach, Dolphinarium Nemo is an entirely different acquatic activity, but one that is sure to delight those traveling with youngsters. Just 10 minutes from the city center, there's no reason to not check it out. Here, travelers have the opportunity not only to look at dolphins, but also to swim and be photographed with them. Recently, a baby dolphin was born here, simply adding to the joy and wonder.