A Hipper Zurich for Budget Travelers

Why Go

Go to Zurich because it is a city that is at once more Swiss and less Swiss than the rest of Switzerland. Far enough away from the borders of France and Italy to have less of their influences than say, Lugano or Geneva, Zurich gets written off of many younger travelers’ to-do lists because of the fact that it has quite the reputation for being a banking capital (read: dead after business hours and boring the rest of the day). I found that instead of too many Rolls Royces and a lack of fun options, there are winding cobblestone streets leading to a number of cool restaurants, surprisingly packed clubs, and great museums that give the cultural capitals in Europe a run for their money. While German is spoken, the city's influences felt markedly more diverse.

Budget travelers who are considering a trip, know this: it's possible to avoid the business center and overpriced attractions entirely, and instead spend most of your time hanging out along streets that look more like Berlin or Amsterdam than Brussels or Wall Street. For your requisite old churches and buildings experience, there's no better spot than the city's former medieval center, known as Old Town. Tucked in each of the alleyways are a growing number of boutique shops, record stores, and even more than one vegetarian restaurant. Cafe culture is on the rise as well, even though the winter weather is more conducive to curling up next to a fireplace and eating fondue than it is to braving a sidewalk afternoon. As far as food goes, it is worth trying some fondue, but don't skip the hot chocolate if you're visiting during the colder months.

For those who enjoy parties and art museums, it's delightful to see that Zurich has both in droves. I still remember being pleasantly surprised heading to Kunsthaus on a weekend to catch an exhibition that was wrapping up and seeing impeccably-dressed couples waiting in a line that wrapped around the building next to families with children, all of whom were patiently looking forward to seeing the exhibition before it moved to the next gallery. The cultural IQ is high here, and that means plenty of free lectures and fabulous one-off film screenings to take advantage of, too.

Insider Tips

Dress to impress. No one told me that the city is filled with highly fashionable people, who quite frankly put many New Yorkers to shame with their unassuming yet strikingly stylish way of dressing even for banal activities, like going to the grocery store. If you're going out to dinner, clubs, or art openings, you're not going to need your black tie attire, but rather, something effortlessly cool. Which, if you haven't been shopping in Europe for awhile, might require a little bit of effort.

Ensure you leave enough time to take a day trip. While Zurich itself might not look like the soaring and mountainous Switzerland that most people have come to expect, just a couple of hours by train and you can be in some of the most popular spots around the world for outdoor adventurers, such as Bern. Even if you have absolutely no desire to bungee jump off the side of a mountain or try any sort of sailing or gliding sports, there's no reason to not get out of the city and see some of the countryside. Do this especially if you didn't take a train to the city in the first place. The Swiss countryside should not be missed.

Brush up on your cinema knowledge, especially if you're going to be spending time amongst 20 and 30-somethings. Or at the very least, don't be surprised when you're invited out to see screenings of obscure Italian films just as much as you're invited out for a beer or a dinner. Cinema is very much en vogue in Zurich, and the influence of university kids who went to Berlin, loved it, and came back means that sitting quietly and earnestly for a four-hour retrospective while dressed to casually impress isn't that much of a rarity amongst the arty crowd.

Where to Stay

Hotel Foyer Hottingen is a good bet for everyone with its comfortable rooms, but particularly for female travelers who are looking to save a significant chunk of money on their lodging costs. Hotel Foyer Hottingen is known for offering regular rooms and dorm-style accommodations on its top floor, with surprisingly nice views, even while space is at a premium. Solo travelers should be prepared to get to know whoever is staying in their sectioned-off double pretty well, since the beds are perhaps an arms-length apart, but those who are in groups will find that the space is perfect for a comfortable, safe, and quiet place to sleep. Twin beds are remarkably comfortable, and while the furnishings are quaint and lockers are very old, the entire floor is surprisingly comfortable. Views from the windows of all of Zurich are quite pleasant, and the bathrooms were huge and impeccably clean. If the idea of staying in dorms as a grown-up is a little too appalling, friends who stayed in the actual rooms on lower floors said that the beds were great and the rooms, though minimal, were bright and spotlessly clean every day. Budget travelers should definitely consider this hotel, which gets written up everywhere and is right around the corner from the city's most popular museum. It definitely beats the typical hostel/budget hotel experience.

Rooms at Pension Lutherstrasse might not always be available for daily or weekly rental, but when they are, it's an excellent deal for travelers. Those planning on staying for more than a couple of days will find there's nothing else this clean, well-located, or affordable in central Zurich, and this lovely building even has a few of its 36 rooms with balconies, meaning great views of the city sprawled below. For travelers on a budget who can't afford the fancier boutique hotel options, this is a nice, minimal place to comfortably rest one's head without sacrificing quality. And for anyone who absolutely falls in love with the city and wants to give a longer visit a try, there's nothing like finding something smack in the middle of everything that's clean, rents rooms monthly and weekly, and offers clean sheets and breakfast, too.

What to Eat

The go-to lunch spot for students, independently wealthy artists, and well-dressed academics and hipsters, Cafe Zahringer is a true gem. The vegetarian café’s outside tables get absolutely mobbed on sunny days. When it's not as nice out, grab a large (or small) wooden table inside, and expect to hear the “Amelie” soundtrack at least once during your lunch. Extremely patient and kind waitstaff look as though they just walked out of their postmodern theatre lecture, but this is not a spot to think you can hack it with the language: my first time here, I thought I was ordering breakfast and ended up with a gigantic plate of pickled vegetables and cheeses. Delicious, yes, but decidedly inappropriate for the late morning. The most packed at lunch, the cafe is open until midnight and is a great spot to grab an off-hours snack while other restaurants are closed between lunch and dinner.

Bodega Espanola (Munstergasse 15) is a bit of a surprise. Perhaps you weren't thinking tapas when you were thinking of Zurich, but after you have dinner at this cozy (read: packed) restaurant right in the middle of the city center, the idea of paella in the winter won't seem so weird. One of those rare spots that seems equally popular with locals and travelers, Bodega Espanola was pretty much filled with people each time I walked past it. I stopped in one evening when the crowds looked a little thinner, and was squeezed in next to a local couple who said they'd been coming there once a week for years. You can see the waiters ladling out portions of the different daily specials, and despite being absolutely teeming with patrons, the volume level manages to be loud without being impossible. One of the most delicious tortillas I've had outside of Spain was consumed here. Their wine list is also fabulous.

Raclette-Stube (Zähringerstrasse 16) is perfect for the requisite fondue fix. If you're going to be in Switzerland, you should really try some fondue, but one look at the more touristy fondue places on the main drags might put you off the idea for the rest of the trip. Wander up in the pedestrian-only streets of the city center until you've found the sign for Raclette-Stube. The plethora of locals dining here is a sure sign that this is more than just another contrived restaurant. Prices were pretty reasonable, and the restaurant was cozy without feeling claustrophobic, with lots of round wooden tables and bench-style seating. I was told that it is best for your digestion when eating fondue to not drink an overly cold beverage at the same time–I don't know if this is true or not, but it certainly was helpful. Choose from a few different types of fondue, which come with delicious bread for dipping. The valaisanne, which has tomatoes, is delicious, as is the Vacherin with wine.

What to See and Do

Kunsthaus is a must for anyone with even a remote interest in the arts. Not just one of the best museums in the country, this is frequently referred to as one of the best museums in all of Europe, and with good reason. The permanent collection spans the usual collection of masters but also includes some surprisingly edgy pieces from art's bad boys, for lack of a better word. The building itself is beautiful, with lunch in the cafe a worthwhile pursuit after a day of trekking around the museum. While the permanent collection may be more focused on the past, even with its significant 21st century holdings, the traveling exhibitions that show are known for pushing their audience to check out more contemporary work, with a particular emphasis on showing Swiss artists whenever possible. Be aware: the museum gets absolutely packed during openings and closings, so if you're going to be visiting during either of those times, don't be surprised if there's a line of calm and patient locals, especially if it's a weekend.

Mount Rigi may be technically closer to Lucerne than to Zurich, but it's a simple day trip and one that you definitely won't regret. In the winter, it turns into one of the most popular places in the area to go skiing or tobogganing, and in the summer months, hiking is apparently extremely popular. The views from the mountain are incredible, and the lakes and surrounding countryside make it worth the trip alone. Even if you're not that into outdoor activities, it's worth the ride just to see the Swiss countryside, and the lakes of Lucerne are surprisingly similar to Lugano, which in turn is obviously similar to its neighbor across the border in Italy, Lake Cuomo. Best of all, if you're not feeling particularly energetic when visiting, the best views are easily accessible either by bus or by cable car, so there's no need to plan for a strenuous hike all the way up.

Kaufleuten is one of those places that's going to require significant preparation and excellent wardrobe choices. It's also the sort of spot that, when someone who lives in Zurich hears you're visiting, they're going to insist on taking you to, even though they haven't been in a couple of months. Unlike so many clubs/bars in Europe that have a reputation for attracting famous people, this gigantic and surprisingly elegant space is actually worth getting all dolled up for. It's actually quite demure, even when it's packed with wealthy Europeans and aspiring models from all walks of life. Best of all, Kaufleuten is always good for a celebrity sighting or a perfectly-poured martini. If you don't feel like dancing, take a break and go hang out in the lounge area instead of over in the main room. Despite the fact that you're going to need to be dressed to impress, the impressing is more about looking as good as the people around you rather than persuading the door guy to let you in. It's also the go-to venue for cooler international bands who are playing in Zurich.