Why Go
Because in a couple of years, everyone is going to raving about how this small fishing village turned popular seaside retreat is the most relaxing place to go in Uruguay. Unlike the snobby glitz and excessive glamor of Uruguay's most famous beach, Punta del Este, Punta del Diablo prefers a more pleasantly rustic approach to seaside leisure. While plenty of travelers from Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil already know about its delightfully natural, uncrowded beaches and laid-back demeanor, others aren't as in on the secret yet. With a population in the mere hundreds during the winter, summer sees an explosion of out-of-towners, with numbers increasing every year.
Punta del Diablo is that rare real deal. It's a place where it's possible to walk up to fishermen coming in from a hard day at the sea and pick up a just-caught fresh catch, where there's one luxury eco-hotel with spa on the fringes of town and most people rent cabins for months or weeks. Incredible breaks draw surfers from around South America, and day trippers who want to check out Brazil for a couple of hours only need to hop on the bus and ride it an hour before they're in a whole new world. With the nearby natural forest, six different stunning beaches to choose from, and a small-town feel, there's no beach retreat quite like this one.
And unlike other more expensive Uruguayan beach towns, it's still possible to rent an entire house with friends for less than $100 USD, meaning waking up to the gentle crashing of waves on Uruguay's most picturesque beaches is less than $25 USD a person. But the secret's about to be out (I almost hesitate to write this guide after having visited for the past three years), so get there quick!
Insider Tips
- Portal del Diablo lists a number of different cabins, villas, and old fishermen's shacks for rent by owner, making it possible to search by amenities and actually communicate directly with the people renting things out. For those who are uninitiated with the town but who speak Spanish, it's the best resource for picking the perfect vacation home.
- For aspiring foodies and chefs, renting a house with a parilla is an absolute necessity. With so much fresh fish and produce available around the city, there's no reason to not be whipping up delights on the grill every single day. Most of the vacation rentals come with parillas, as this type of cooking is a way of life for Argentines and Uruguayans alike. But double-check to make sure yours has one.
- Anyone picking up fish from Playa de los Pescadores should head there in the late afternoon for the best deal. With most boats coming in between 5 and 8, wandering by the small brown building housing all of the fishermen is a safe bet for grabbing some of the best seafood. Be sure to not make an amateur mistake and rush the boat, as it won't endear you to the guys trying to do their jobs.
- With consistent surf that's not too overwhelming, Punta del Diablo is a great place for trying to get up on a board for the first time. Those who have no experience can pick from a couple of different surf schools around town, and plenty of different storefronts on the water's edge, including random groceries and even people's own homes, rent boards for around $10 USD a day.
- Go to an ATM before you get to town! The new town center just unveiled the very first ATM in Punta del Diablo, but it sometimes doesn't work with out-of-town cards and frequently runs out of money in the summer months. For travelers who want to have the best travel experience possible, it's absolutely crucial to plan ahead and bring the necessary cash. Otherwise, you'll find yourself taking a bus ride to Chuy to hit the ATM, and while a few hours spent in a border town might not be a huge setback to many longer vacations, it isn't the best bet for a shorter stay.
- Don't worry about directions. Without actual numbered addresses throughout much of Punta del Diablo, the person telling you that the cabin you're renting is on 11th Street after the pharmacy is actually giving the most spot-on directions possible.
Where to Stay
The husband-wife duo Richard and Eva rent one larger home and three adorable matching sky-blue cabins called Las Carolinas a 10-minute walk from the main drag and the best beaches. Modern yet cozy, the spacious porches are a perfect place to grill up some fish, relax with a bottle of wine, and enjoy the view to not one, not two, but three of the surrounding beaches. With one bedroom and a loft that sleeps three, it's the perfect spot to pick for families or groups of friends. Rent by the night, week, or entire month. Speaking Spanish is a must, but for those who do, the service is impeccable. Eva was kind enough to pick me and my friends up from the bus, give a quick tour of town to those of us who hadn't been to Punta del Diablo before, and let us duck into her home to check internet.
With fancier hotels popping up on the outskirts of town, it's possible to have a truly decadent experience. But those who want a romantic evening don't have to shell out cash nearly to the extent of other Uruguayan beaches. La Viuda del Diablo, a new property with stellar suites, on-site spa services, and the chance to gaze at the waves crashing on the beach from a Jacuzzi, would cost an arm and a leg in Punta del Este, but is a reasonable splurge for travelers who want a more romantic and less rustic place to retire at the end of a long day.
Adventurous backpackers have more hostel options popping up around town, but for the very best in predictable dreadlocks and drunk surfers from the States, El Diablo Tranquilo continues to reign supreme. Opened up by an expat before the big land boom, it sits overlooking one of the best surfing beaches and is only seconds to most of the restaurants or bars. Get a private room with hammock, or share one of the dorms. It's the spot where you're most likely to meet friends who want to make a campfire and play guitar on the beach after a long day of exploring, so younger travelers who want to make English-speaking friends and stay up late will love it here.
What to Eat
This can be tricky, as the best restaurant in town, El Viejo y El Mar, recently shuttered when its owner passed away. Those who can cook are recommended to pick up sundries and have at it, as there's nothing better than whipping up a feast for friends on a deck while the fresh salt air cools everyone down. But if cooking in every night isn't on the agenda, these are some great places to get a snack.
The two ladies running the roving churro truck that can be found on Playa de los Pescadores make the freshest, tastiest treats for anyone with an insatiable sweet tooth. Choose from chocolate, dulce de leche, or sweet cream filling and have your churros made to order, rolled in cinnamon and sugar, and handed over for the incredibly reason price of 20 Uruguayan pesos a churro. The line during the busy season can be pretty excessive, so plan ahead.
For more budget snacking, hungry surfers and outdoorsy types stop by Pan Casero el Gringo, which used to boast the funniest sign in town but now is overshadowed by a chain bakery. This small bakery makes stuffed bread that sells for 70 Uruguayan pesos a kilo, meaning that for 5 American dollars, it's possible to pick up a bag of three or four warm, freshly-baked loaves. Options include cheese and onion, salami, panceta, and many other delicious fillings. The bakery also has a number of delicious cookies and pastry items.
What to See
Walk out on the rocks for the experience of being on the actual point that gives Punta its name. For a sunset or the chance for unforgettable photos when the water's a bit rougher, it's the spot to be. And when other beaches feel a little bit warmer during the high season, this is the one spot in town where it's always going to be a little bit cooler, with consistent sea breeze. So it's a nice little retreat while in the middle of town, and a fun short walk for anyone.
Experienced surfers head to Playa de Viuda, where there are usually the biggest waves, but also one of the more fierce currents in the area. For those who just want to watch, it's a great secluded spot to do a little bit of sunbathing, and the short walk through a winding maze of older fishermen's cabins looks like an alternate universe packed with mystical seaside elves and gnomes. Anyone who is adept at surfing will find this the best spot in town to paddle out into the break, and there's less competition for waves than the main drag's beach, which boasts smaller barrels that last forever.
Bird-watchers trek to Laguna Negra (the Black Lagoon), which sees scores of different species visit throughout the year, but particularly in the warm summer months. It's just a short trek away from other inland features that tend to drag people away from the beach, like the Saint Teresa Fort, which was built in the 1700s and can be toured by visitors. Both of these spots are far easier for those with cars to get to, so keep that in mind if you're in town without a reliable set of wheels.
Photos: rabble, Vince Alongi, Whitney Weiss, Las Carolinas, La Viuda del Diablo