Why Go
Originally founded as a Roman city, and currently Spain’s 2nd largest city, Barcelona provides an unforgettable destination experience with its remarkable mix of culinary, architecture, arts, fashion and historical attractions. Sleek, modern hotel bars and medieval gothic architecture are juxtaposed in this vibrant Catalonian city. 68 municipal parks, 4.5 km of glistening beaches around the Olympic port, ski resorts in the Pyrenees and the uniquely sculpted mountains of Montserrat provide the scenic backdrop to a bustling metropolitan city.
Denizens of Barcelona do not venture out for tapas and dinners until 8pm. The late start to the evening ensures tree-lined pedestrian malls like the world famous Las Ramblas pulse with excitement late into the night, giving New York City a run for its money as the “City that never sleeps.”
World re-known artists and architects have called the Catalan region home. Artist Pablo Picasso, Art Nouveau architect Antoni Gaudi and Surrealist painter Salvador Dali head the list. Their artistic influences can be seen all over Barcelona and there are numerous museums dedicated to each of these artistic greats.
In addition to the traditional arts, food has been elevated to art form in the Catalonia region. Spain is home to an exhilarating and innovative cooking scene, with Catalonian cooking considered the most inventive and exciting. Spain is home to Ferran Adria of El Bulli, widely considered the best chef on the planet. Adria has been credited for the “Nueva Cocina” movement and his inspirational avant-garde cooking has influenced the cuisine at many restaurants in Barcelona.
Insider Tips
- When in Barcelona, eat like the Barcelonians. Typical Spaniard dining patterns include an early breakfast at 8am, then grazing throughout the day, with a siesta during 3pm-6pm. Most restaurants do not open for Tapas and dinner until 8pm.
- Visit the Mercat de la Boqueria. (See full review below.) This is a perfect place to start your day with a 1 Euro fresh squeezed mango/coconut juice and a freshly baked baguette. Here, you will find relatively inexpensive breakfasts, snacks, and food for picnic lunches. Stock up for your day trips outside of Barcelona. There is an astonishing selection of fresh baked pastries, fruit cocktails, cheeses, sardines, sandwiches, cured meats, and pintxos.
- Have a glass of Cava. Or three. Cava, or “cave”, is a Spanish sparkling wine, produced mainly in the Penedes region. The flavor of Cava is comparable to high quality French Champagne, but with a more affordable price tag. Here is a quick reference for dryness: Brut Nature (No added sugar), Brut (Extra dry), Seco (Dry), Semi-seco (Medium) and Dulce (Sweet).
- Tipping: Gratuities are discretionary, but are always appreciated. Some restaurants will add a “bread and complements” charge or similar service charge to the bill. A tip of 5% to 10% would be appropriate if a service charge is not on the bill, or if you would like to reward exceptional service. When at a café or bar, you can leave a few coins for coffee, drinks and light snacks.
- Ask shop owners for an IVA (VAT) tax refund when purchasing goods that you will be taking back home with you. This can save you some cash, up to 16%. You must spend a minimum of 90.15 Euros at a participating shop and fill out an IVA refund forms at the store. Forms need to be stamped at the Airport Customs office prior to departure, and they may ask to inspect your purchases. The customs area and the bank for obtaining your refund are located in different parts of the terminal. Give yourself enough time at the terminal to get the refund paperwork stamped and to receive your credit or cash. You can also mail the stamped paperwork, but receipt of your refund could take up to 3 months.
- Take a day trip by train: Visit Montserrat (more on this below). Transport your mind and body outside the hustle and bustle of Barcelona, to a mountain sanctuary with breathtaking views and priceless artwork.
- Take an overnight trip by car: Visit Girona and the Costa Brava, or “Wild Coast”. Girona is home to the iconic 3 Michelin star El Bulli restaurant. Eating here will take dedication, as reservations need to be booked up to 3 years in advance. Nearby Figueres is home to the amazing Salvador Dali Museum. Drive up the AP-7 coastline and enjoy fresh Catalonian seafood on the beautiful beaches and in historical seaport towns of Lloret de Mar and Cadaques.
Where to stay
A 30 minute drive from Las Ramblas up into the mountainside will take you to a luxury hotel with drop-dead gorgeous views of Barcelona and the Mediterranean. Gran Hotel La Florida, a Leading Small Hotel of the World, features well appointed Art Nouveau-style furnishings, free high speed internet, beautiful spa with swimming pool and magnificent roof deck bar. We arrived to a welcome glass of Cava, and the concierge was friendly and accommodating. We stayed in a corner Deluxe Room with a plush bed and beautiful views of downtown Barcelona. Gran Hotel La Florida is a fantastic value at 155 Euros per night based on its 5-star amenities, luxury rooms, great service and superb views and spa.
This hidden gem provides a peaceful contrast from the busy city. Note that Gran Hotel La Florida is inconveniently located from downtown Barcelona, so plan on getting away from it all. The hotel provides a complimentary shuttle bus to Ray Juan Carlos 1 Square between 10am to 6:45pm by appointment only. If you leave early or come back late, a cab ride from downtown Barcelona will take approximately 30 minutes and cost 40 Euros.
With décor inspired by Spanish colonies in Cuba and the Philippines, Hotel 1898 is a chic luxury boutique hotel optimally located in the heart of Las Ramblas. The hotel boasts 2 pools, one on the rooftop with dining/bar and a second indoor pool near the spa and gym. The Spa does not have a large changing area, but the pool, steam room, and sauna are beautiful. The pool features water jet chairs and waterfalls.
We stayed in a Classic room with Queen bed for 3 nights. Included amenities are free wireless internet, room safe, ETRO toiletries, tea kettle and tea set. Natural light levels in the room are low from the diffused light off the covered courtyard. Our room was very quiet because it faced away from Las Ramblas. Unless you require a street view, the Classic Room is the same size and 100 Euros less than the Privilege Room. During our stay, we toured the Privilege and Deluxe rooms. The Deluxe Room features a private terrace and more natural light, although it is smaller the Classic Room. Concierge service is knowledgeable (spot-on with restaurant recommendations) and professional, but not necessarily friendly.
Where to eat and drink
Carlos Abellan trained under Catalonia’s godfather of cuisine, Ferran Adria, and the food at chef at Comerc 24 shows the influence of a great chef. Comerc24 is a dimly lit, modern space slightly off the beaten path on a quiet street. We had the Festival Menu (62 Euros, plus bread/complements charge and tax), a complete seasonal and classical tapas selection. The sommelier made wonderful choices with the additional wine pairing. Olives stuffed with anchovies, and golden macadamias started the meal. Notable dishes: Kinder Egg (mousse with egg and truffles), Cuttlefish ink rice, wild Hake Pil-Pil, and shaved white truffles. Dessert was excellent. An a la carte menu is also available.
After a couple days indulging in tapas and decadent Catalonian cuisine, mix it up with an organic, vegan lunch. An organic market food stand is located at the far end of the Mercat de la Boqueria and serves hearty portions of pimiento stuffed with rice, veggies and cheese, lettuce wrap pinxtos and fresh daily soups. 10 Euros will get you a selection of 1 hot or cold main, a salad, vegetables and rice. Please note there is no seating at this food stand. There are café/bars steps away. Order an Estrella Damm Spanish beer and they’ll let you sit down and nosh on your tasty, vegan fare.
Boadas (C/ Tallers 1, +34 93 318 95 92) the oldest cocktail bar in Barcelona has been the haunt for luminaries Ernest Hemingway, George Orwell and Joan Miro. Before heading out for Tapas, I stopped into this intimate, smoke-filled bar directly off Las Ramblas to watch the bow-tied bartenders mix drinks with panache. Starting waist high, the mixologists gently pour spirits and liquid ingredients from glass to glass, finally ending in a 3 foot high arc. Their Mojito is legendary. I was fortunate to meet celebrated second generation bar-owner, Maria Dolores, still dazzling in her 70s. Fittingly, the oldest bar in Barcelona does not own a Web site.
If you're staying at Hotel 1898 or in the vicinity, it offers two bars worth checking out. La Isabela is a poolside terrace bar/restaurant with roof-top views, atop Hotel 1898. Dark woods and leather adorn Bar H1898, located in the swank, modern lobby of Hotel 1898. Try their signature Coconut and Chilly Mojito 1898 (Jalapeno gives the drink a nice bite) or a gin and tonic with Hendrick’s, fresh cucumbers and Fever-Tree. Bartenders are friendly and know their tasty, albeit high-priced drinks.
What to see
Wander through the historical, vibrant open air Mercat de la Boqueria and marvel at the sights, sounds and smells. Since 1826, hundreds of stalls have been hawking a bewildering selection of high quality fish, mixed seafood, meats, poultry, baked goods, sweets, olives, local fresh produce and fruits. Buy little bits of flavorful Serrano ham, cod fish pintxos, fresh marzipan candies, and succulent Muscat raisins to sustain you while you walk the same stalls as Barcelona’s world-class chefs. There are several restaurants that serve up the catch of the day and fresh produce sourced from the market. Try Pinoxtos, Bar Central and Organic Market. La Boqueria is located directly off of Las Ramblas.
Awe-inspiring architectural details abound in Casa Batllo Gaudi, a quintessential representation of Antoni Gaudi’s genius. Built in 1904, for a middle class family, the residence still looks modern 100 years later. In true Gaudi style, there are very few straight lines, beautiful custom mosaics, and fish scale/skeleton motifs. Book your ticket online and avoid the queue. After your visit, stop by one of the nearby cafés for a cappuccino and go shopping in the Eixample.
Talk about your construction job security! Originally designed by Antoni Gaudi, La Sagrada Familia has been under construction for over 127 years. Work is planned for completion by the 3rd decade of this century. The Church Technical Office painstakingly follows Gaudi’s original complex designs through his plaster models and building plans. Walk up the turret stairs and catch your breath as you view the city of Barcelona from your perch high atop the church. The walk is not for the claustrophobic. La Sagrada Familia’s fantastic details and amazing architecture have been listed as a World Heritage Site.
Translated “Serrated Mountain”, Montserrat has breathtaking views reached by cable car or rack railway. Pick up some snacks and lunch from La Boqueria, and leave early so you have enough time to explore all the attractions the mountain has to offer. With the exception of the museum, most attractions are open to the public at no additional cost. Nestled at the base of the mountain, you can visit the monastery, Basilica and Montserrat Museum. Prepare to be blown away by the L’Escolania boys’ choir performing in the Montserrat Basilica weekdays at 1pm. Religious visitors hope their prayers come true when they touch the orb held by the La Moreneta “ Black Madonna”. Take the Funicular de Sant Joan railway to the peak of the mountain. At the top, you will find nature trails and shrines with spectacular views of the mountains and the monastery below.
Montserrat can be reached by car or 1 hour train ride from Barcelona’s Plaza d’Espanya station. We bought a combined ticket for 22.50 Euros per person. This ticket includes a round trip on the metro, train from Barcelona to Montserrat Aeri, cable car ride, Funicular de Sant Joan railway, and free admission to the Interactive Exhibition at the La Botiga gift shop.
Photos: Wolfgang Staudt, Alex Castella, Hotel 1898, David Hatchard, austinevan, Shaun Merritt, Mauricio Pellegrinetti