Why Go
Across the river from Buenos Aires lies Montevideo, Uruguay, one of the most under-visited capital cities in all of South America, and foreigners are just starting to wise up about it. While Uruguayan beaches have long gotten international accolades, its biggest cities remain unexplored–and that's a shame. From classical architecture (one downtown building sends monthly light beacons across the river to its Argentine counterpart) to a waterfront walkway better suited for Spain, Montevideo definitely shows its outside influences. Anyone interested in a city that's about to be big will find that the fledgling art scene, with young South American artists from around the continent flocking here in search of cheap rent and a downtown studio space, is one definitely worth paying attention to. With pop-up museums in the downtown and classic cafes that still encourage loafing all afternoon, there's a little bit of everything in the Uruguayan capital city.
Unlike other sprawling South American metropolitan areas, Montevideo is also a great choice for those who prefer a more compact area for exploring. It's possible to stay on foot and see the main sights in an afternoon, heading from the opera house to the Spanish Cultural Center, known for its free folklore performances and great reading room. And with the city awakening to the possibilities of netting more tourists, it's a great time to come explore. From newly-opened boutique hotels to reliable international chains, finding an affordable yet comfy place to stay in the city center is worlds easier than in other southern hemisphere locales. Bustling with energy and packed with classic buildings, Montevideo is well worth a visit. Want complete relaxation at the beach? Check out tips for Punta del Diablo, Pristine Beaches and Stunning Sunsets in Punta del Diablo.
Insider Tips
- While the direct boat from Buenos Aires gets there the fastest, those on a truly tight budget might want to forgo BuqueBus and its convenience for a different method of arrival. A leisurely and beautiful cruise with Cacciola Viajes involves hopping on a boat in Tigre, riding it to Carmelo, and then settling in for a three-hour bus ride through the rolling countryside. Those who aren't on a tight schedule will appreciate the surreal river boat experience and chance to check out the rural stretches between Carmelo and Montevideo and at more than half off the cost of BuqueBus, it's a great way to save some money.
- For those who have been taking taxis during the daylight hours, don't be surprised if the meter starts at a higher rate during the evening and on weekends. The cab driver isn't actually trying to rip you off; he's following the rules, since rates change at night, on certain holidays, and on weekends.
- While Cuidad Vieja (Old Town) is fun for walking around and exploring, budget eaters will find themselves spending a bit more for the same street food and snacks that are cheaper elsewhere. The city center around Plaza de Independencia is an easier neighborhood to try local staples, like a chevito sandwich, for far less cash.
- Argentina and Brazil might be known as having more openminded cultures, but Montevideo was the first city in South America to dedicate a monument to respect for the GLBT community. Located a short walk from Plaza Independencia and Plaza de la Constitucion, the monument reads “honoring diversity is honoring life” and while not gigantic, is symbolically huge.
- Travelers who want to explore the various museums in Montevideo without paying a cover charge can do so if they time their visit for the last weekend in September. On that Saturday, all cultural centers allow free admission, and plenty of special events and celebrations are planned to keep the art party going for hours.
- Out of all South American countries, Uruguay is the place where mate really reigns supreme. Expect to be jostled on the bus by people carrying their fancy leather mate satchels, to spy people preparing fresh rounds by the Rambla, and even to see visitors drinking it at the beach in the middle of the summer! If you're not used to the taste, it's worth throwing in some sugar and giving it another go.
- The best cheap snack in Montevideo comes from the various carts slinging churros to locals and visitors alike. A cheap and tasty treat, they can come in savory or sweet varieties, but expect to pay next to nothing and feel very full after one or two. It's definitely essential to sample one filled with the sweet caramel-y dulce de leche, as well as one with gooey chocolate.
Where to Stay
Montevideo understands its current pull for budget travelers, which makes finding a hostel an easy task, especially since backpackers from neighboring countries have been visiting for years. Those who want to stay in a dorm room for less than 20 USD a night and enjoy use of Wi-Fi, bicycles, and a kitchen should pick Piedras de Afilar Art Hostel, right in the center of downtown (there are also single and double rooms available for 38 USD if the dorm experience doesn't sound compelling). It's an excellent pick for those who are really on a shoestring budget and are hoping to meet some locals. Cleaner and well-kept, it's also close to the city's galleries and cafes that attract artier patrons. Friends of mine were staying here and were thrilled with their experience.
For a more old-school locale, the Hotel Palacio right in the old town has great views of the harbor from the top floor of a building rich with classic architecture and a little short on water pressure. Those who want sights and charm over contemporary minimal decor and typical amenities can spend as little as 40 USD a night on a room and feel as though they're in the middle of Europe, rather than Montevideo. A fantastic old wrought iron elevator makes getting to top floors easier for those who can't handle the walk up, but when in doubt, book at street level.
What to Eat
While it might see its fair share of tourists, the Mercado del Puerto attracts visitors for good reason: it's the most atmospheric place in the city to eat a steak larger than one's head. While nearby Argentina might get all the steak-related accolades, the fact is that Uruguayan beef is even more delicious, with cows roaming freely and feeding on healthy grass rather than processed grains. Sundays bring artists and artisans to Mercado del Puerto for a street fair kind of feel, but the hordes of parillas, each with a dazzling array of cuts of meat ready to throw right on the grill, are the real draw.
For the best and cheapest spot in the market, Estancia Del Puerto is the clear pick. The restaurant was featured when Anthony Bourdain came to town with his show “No Reservations,” and it offers guests the unthinkable: all the meat you can possibly eat for one low price. While “tenedor libre” restaurants are common around South America, one where fresh, delicious meat that is grilled up and then continuously passed out until the patron is stuffed is not as easy to find. Those who would like to eat well on an actual budget won't find a better spot in the city.
Those who want to socialize with a younger crowd and see the direction that Montevideo might be taking in a few years should head to Arte CasaBlanca, part place to grab snacks, part gallery space, and part bar. With low lighting, comfortable sofas, and plenty of stylish people hanging out, it feels more like a well-curated dinner or house party than a spot accustomed to nights of boozing.
What to See
For people-watching, catching a sunset, and general relaxation, heading down to the waterfront Rambla is a great way to spend a couple of hours. Travelers who aren't well acquainted with the lay of the land should use their common sense, as there are a couple of sketchier fringe port areas, but those going in daylight hours needn't worry. Watch the sun set, enjoy the breeze from the water, and feel a little like a local.
Teatro Solis is one of the best-known spots to visit while exploring Montevideo, and while those who come might not want to sit through an opera, it is nice to take a tour and check out the architecture. Fully renovated and open to the public again, the theater was built in 1856, though the late 1990s renovation is how the building got those Phillipe Starck-designed columns out front. While performances might be expensive, depending on what's on, tickets for tours of the space are affordable for all budgets.
For a mix of art, delicious snacks, and live performances, Spain's Cultural Center (El Centro Cultural de Espana) is an excellent destination for all travelers. The contemporary black box theater sees some of Montevideo's best musicians, artists and photographers display new work on a rotating basis, and the cafe allows people to pull up a chair and quietly leaf through countless magazines on art and cinema. An excellent stop for all culturally-minded visitors, not just those from Spain.
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