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For a relatively small city of just over 800,000, San Francisco has a surprisingly good French bakery scene, where we've previously reviewed Tartine Manufactory and B Patisserie. Count Maison Nico, located downtown, among the delicious offerings of the City by the Bay. Its genesis is serendipitous: when Michelin-starred Bistro Nico closed during the pandemic, chef-owner Nicolas Delaroque pivoted to a French bakery cafe specializing in pâté en croûte, brioche feuilletée, and viennoiserie.
Maison Nico Location and Hours
Maison Nico is located at 710 Montgomery, about a 12-minute walk from Montgomery BART and Muni Station. Or go driverless and take Waymo. The cafe's indoor seating is quite limited, with only a couple tables plus a communal table. If you don't manage to snag a chair, consider taking your treat to go, and, weather permitting, enjoy it at the Transamerica Redwood Park nearby.
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Maison Nico Offerings
Many visitors come in the morning for coffee and a pastry, sometimes with lines out the door. We've heard great things about the Paris Brest and choux pastry, although we haven't yet tried them.
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We have, however, tried the Croissant De Saison (almond croissant with seasonal fruit) on two different occasions, once with huckleberries, and another time with quince, and both were fantastic.
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There's a reason why Maison Nico's savory offerings are so prominent: Chef Delaroque earned a finalist spot at the 2022 Championnat du Monde de Pâté-Croûte in Lyon, so his pâté en croûte, whether of duck, boudin and pistachio, or of wild boar or veal, are the real deal. For dinner one evening, we took home a duck pithivier, which is also a Maison Nico classic, made of duck breast, duck liver, pork and duck sausage, garlic, Grand Marnier, Port, Swiss chard, and herbs. Rich and satisfying, it comes with a rich duck jus sauce, and perfect accompaniments are pommes duchesse or black truffle mashed potatoes, along with a green salad.
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For those who prefer beef, there's an attractive Beef Wellington:
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Or for a more casual yet hearty lunch, try the Chipolata Sausage Friand, flaky puff pastry stuffed with pork and sage sausage and topped with sesame seeds. If dining in the cafe, it's heated up and comes with a simple side salad.
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The Verdict
Maison Nico's savory offerings are even better than its viennoiserie, albeit pricey. Highlights were the croissant de saison with huckleberries and duck pithivier although we wish the latter was a bit larger given its $55 price.
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