Why go?
Because if you think New York is actually the capital of fashion, it's time you set yourself straight. Milan isn't just the fashion capital of Italy, it's in charge of everything from Europe–and you know who those New York designers are emulating, don't you? Yes, Italy might sometimes have a reputation for tourists getting blinded by the reflection off of those tacky D&G belt buckles in every piazza south of Rome, but in the north, high fashion is still very much in charge. If you are remotely interested in what's on in the fashion world, there isn't a better city to be visiting.
Most of the big magazines who do anything involving fashion have an outpost in Milan, to give you an idea of how seriously people take what comes down those runways. And thankfully, this sense of style extends to the streets, where you're going to see the actually best-dressed people in all of Italy. Because as wonderful as it is to see someone who is drop-dead gorgeous, it is even better when they are impeccably dressed. Just don't forget to dress up when you're going out at night, or you might not get into the club or bar you were hoping on exploring late into the evening.
As chic and stylish as much of the population currently is, Milan is also worth a trip because it is preserving its more traditional side in the most tasteful way possible. This is a city where warehouse concerts and kitschy gay clubs are catching on more each year, but there are still lines to see the awe-inspiring architecture of the city's duomo. If old buildings, especially old churches, are your thing, Milan will prove that you don't have to head to Tuscany to have a rich cultural experience that shows off the best of the old Italian masters.
However, the one thing that really sets Milan apart from the rest of Italy is that it is more interested in the future and forward thinking, even while it lovingly preserves relics of its past. Whether it's the fusion cuisine that seems to be taking over the culinary scene, a (relatively) more organized way of doing things, or the outward looking professionals, Milan feels like it is a whole world away from places like Napoli, or even Rome sometimes, for that matter. From the architecture of its train station to the manner in which people do business, there are a lot of more contemporary influences at play.
One of the areas of life where this forward-thinking approach is most obvious to visitors is the club scene, which deserves to place higher on 24 hour party people's list of places to lose a weekend. Whether you plan on dressing in expensive designer clothes from head to toe and barely nodding along to the beat of a too-cool DJ or actually want to dance until dawn with quirky fashions and overt enthusiasm, there's something for you. And unlike the rest of Italy, there's a whole lot more for you if you aren't straight: just like with New York or San Francisco in the States, it seems like a lot of Italians who didn't want to live life in the closest and who could afford the cost of living took off for Milan. Whether you're gay or straight, the fact is that a whole lot of the best parties happen at the city's gay clubs.
Insider Tips
- If getting eaten alive by mosquitoes isn't really your thing, you might want to avoid the late summer months, when the city somehow becomes a magnet for them. Otherwise, you might have to swallow your pride (and put down your Chanel No 5) and cover yourself with bug spray, lest you show up dressed to kill with bites all over your body. Be warned, too, that many places shut down in August.
- This is not a city for car rentals. You're not going to need a car within Milan, because the traffic is bad enough to make Los Angeles seem docile, with drivers who are likely to go up onto the sidewalk (though this all looks civil compared to southern Italy). Ditch plans to drive and instead get used to taking the subway, which offers the easiest way of getting around, though service stops at midnight. After midnight, most people make do with the taxis, which are pretty much everywhere, no matter what hour you plan on retiring.
- Don't make your budget expecting a budget travel experience. There's really no way around the fact that Milan is more expensive than a lot of European cities, period. We're talking London and Amsterdam-caliber prices for everything from your hotel room to your dinner and your club admission. If you're doing the whole budget travel thing, save a lot by finding a hostel, but book that as far ahead of time as possible.
- Prepare to disco nap if you really want to make a night of it. While most clubs close around two in the morning, just as many are known for going until anywhere between three and six, with after parties not as rare as they have been in the past. To really have a night of fun, you are going to need some beauty sleep in the late afternoon or early evening so that you can keep up.
- If you're really broke, buying a drink at the right time can get you an entire dinner. Especially if you plan your visit during happy hour. A number of different spots try to outdo one another on the happy hour buffet, referred to in Italian as “aperitivo.” When I was there, the reigning king was Exploit, where there was much less of a frantic broke college kid rush feeling to the happy hour, which served more than just meat and cheese. Drinks were actually quite good, too.
- Do not underestimate the entertainment factor of people-watching just about anywhere in the city. The fashions and attitude of some of the locals will make everyone from New Yorkers to fierce portenas appear demure and conservatively dressed by comparison.
Where to stay
It’s hard to imagine a better place to stay in Milan if money is no object than the Park Hyatt Milan—rooms are luxurious, service is top-notch, and the hotel is located in the heart of Milan, near the Piazza Duomo, Galleria, La Scala, etc.
The beautifully appointed rooms feature high ceilings, wonderfully comfortable beds, spacious marble bathrooms and fresh flowers in the room.
And if you're seeking a lively, happening scene, the hotel bar and restaurants are favorite meeting spots for hip, fashionable locals.
Not on an expense account? Milan is a notoriously expensive city to find a room in, but if you manage to snag a reservation at Hotel Arno, you won't notice. Doubles are available from roughly 60 euros, and though small and with somewhat worn furniture, they are clean. If stunning decor is your thing, then this is not the hotel for you. If you are looking for something that is pleasant, bright, and quaint without costing a fortune, I do not think there is better in the city. The owner was very nice, taking the time to provide some recommendations. My only word of advice if you are staying here is to look for the hotel's name on the buzzer, because the sign is small and easy to miss on the first go-round.
Where to eat
Bagutta has been around for forever, which must be why people seem to think it's worth checking out. While the people-watching was pretty top-notch and the food was delicious, though basic, prices were slightly unreasonable. It is an excellent spot to start your exploration of Italian food actually in Italy, especially to find out what sort of texture gnocchi should actually have (hint: not chewy like gum made of potatoes). I understand the mistake of eating somewhere that is essentially a higher-class tourist trap, and I also know that Milan is a pretty expensive city, so I'm willing to cut some slack on the cost. Service was surprisingly fast, considering that it was practically mobbed, and it was pretty cool to eat someplace that had been around since the '20s.
If your trip to Italy is not going to take you to the deep south, then eating at Al Merluzzo Felice (Via Lazzaro Papi, 6) is the second-best option. Sicilian food done surprisingly and shockingly right, all the way down to the extremely reasonable price. It's an affordable, cozy, and consistently packed restaurant that manages to avoid pretension while serving up what could possibly be some of the best seafood in all of Milan. I was recommended this restaurant by a friend who works in fashion in Milan, so I was expecting ridiculous decor and overly-creative plating decisions, but what I got was so much better. Two things to keep in mind: one, it is super-small, so be prepared to set up a reservation potentially a couple of days in advance. Secondly, you will spoil yourself for life with most of the wines here, so get ready to be disappointed when they are impossible to find States-side.
Instead of breaking the bank on the latest expensive restaurant in Milan, just spend a little bit more during your afternoon at one of the city's famous cafes. A bunch of them are all located on Corso Genova, but I picked Cucchi because it had the most stylish looking patrons who seemed to be braving the potential dangers of carbs to scarf down pastries at an almost alarming speed. Once you have a bite of pretty much any baked good on the menu, you will see what all of the fuss is about.
If you're not really in the mood for something sweet, I remember there being pizzas, too. The espresso is so great it will practically have you dreading the moment you return to the States, because it's the kind of espresso that makes people who are normally not snobby say things like, “I just can't go back to American coffee after Italy.” Best of all, since it's just pastries and coffee, even though it's expensive in comparison, it's nowhere near as bad as one of the fancier restaurants open in the same neighborhood during dinnertime.
What to do
Even if you didn't know much about Milan before you got there, you've probably heard about Milan's Duomo (cathedral), which is what practically every person visiting the city makes a beeline for the minute they start their sightseeing. For once, the masses have it right. Just like Notre Dame, there is something that is actually awe-inspiring and pleasantly overwhelming about the duomo. The soaring walls of the interior and the stained glass windows are unlike anything else I'd seen before, and I'm not even that much of a “check out the old buildings” person. However, the view of the city from the roof, as well as the weird sensation of being surrounded by a bunch of life-size statues of various saints, is definitely something that's not to be missed. If there's a particularly long line to get in, be sure to watch your purse or bag so that you don't get pick-pocketed while you wait.
To balance out all of that older culture that you're taking in, why not spend one of your nights in Milan at the Magazzini Generali, a medium-sized club that attracts everything from the world's best upcoming DJs to obscure bands from all over the place who will probably be famous in a couple of years? More established acts also take the stage here from time to time, and everyone from the local fashionistas to the college-age kids are known to pack the floor and the balcony, depending on what's on that particular night. The building used to be a warehouse, so it has all of that typically-arty charm of a reclaimed space. If you have been missing art school outfits, this is one of the places in Milan where you're most likely to find them. The regular club night price was low, but posters made it look like when big names are in town, tickets cost what you'd expect them to cost.
Photos: oksidor,Joi, Park Hyatt Milan, Bagutta, Whitney Weiss, schizoform, opethpainter